Showing posts with label Bad Driburg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bad Driburg. Show all posts

3 Jul 2014

Europe 2014: Wrapping up


How to wrap up... well I’ll start with the negative bits of which there are only a few. The elephant in the room is of course the oil slick between the Czech villages of Leontýn and Karlov which caused the bike to spit us off at 70kph—you can read more here. Coincidentally this is by far the most read entry about this trip on my blog—you guys are bloodthirsty!!

A big negative was missing out visiting our friends in Austria—we were really looking forward to seeing them, but given the mishap, we felt it was best not to go even further from home before the bike could be repaired. Unfortunately this also meant I wasted €40 on vignettes for Austria and Switzerland but that’s not the end of the world.

Perhaps minor in the grand scheme of things, but it really pissed me off that the cleaners came into the room two mornings in a row at the hotel in Berlin at stupid o’clock (around 8am)—with the ‘do not disturb’ hanger on the door. Few things wind me up but I do like my privacy—why bother making these hangers?

Oh, and the rubbish timing of Berlin traffic lights—needlessly causing congestion—the worst I’ve come across in any city.

Finally, the BMW Navigator IV (aka Garmin 660) wound me up a few times because it is bloody slow when calculating routes avoiding the main roads/motorways—I mean have a coffee and a sandwich slow. What takes the GPS app in my iPhone three seconds to calculate was taking up to 10 minutes to calculate on the dedicated Navigator. The workaround is to avoid calculating routes to places further than a few hundred kilometres at a time. I understand the Navigator V is much quicker but I’m not spending £500 on another GPS when this one otherwise works great.

Now the positives. Firstly the technology bits—a special mention once again for the Sena SMH5 bluetooth headsets. The best technology is that which works invisibly in the background and Sena have really nailed it with this product. Never a problem and two days’ battery life out of a single charge. My camera, laptop and phone all happily buzzed along as well.

The bike was great, aforementioned incident notwithstanding. All loaded up we were fairly close to the weight limit but there was more than enough power to go as fast as you like. Even fully loaded the brakes are strong enough to lift the rear wheel and the clutch feather light. With the Gear Shift Assist Pro system, touring is effortless—despite a few random missed shifts where the system seemed to get confused—overall, well worth the extra cost.

It seems the days of boxers engines drinking oil are over, as it didn’t consume any. Average fuel consumption was a very acceptable 51mph—better than many 600cc bikes (my old Honda Hornet got around 45mph), and only 9mph less than my F800GS on a similar trip. For reference, the worst I saw on the computer was 13mpg on heavy throttle accelerating up a long, steep hill and the best was around 75mpg on cruise control at 50mph on level ground.

There is a minor quirk of the fuelling system on this bike—modern engines cut the fuel flow while decelerating (to reduce pollution and improve fuel consumption) and this ‘feature’ made itself known at times while maintaining a low speed (30mph) while travelling on a slight decline, resulting in some roughness.

All in all, the new R1200GS is a reliable, well engineered machine that is great fun even while weighted down for full touring duty. It never leaves you wanting for something better and puts a smile on your face no matter what type of road you’re on.

Locations, locations... Loved Berlin, loved Prague—such different cities, both with something for everyone. The botanical gardens were a highlight—an oasis in the middle of a busy city.

The Fruithof Tack in Belgium, Louis Léger Hotel in Prague and Hotel Ambiente in Wemding all tie for best accommodation. Special mention to Hôtel-Restaurant Braas Sàrl in Eschdorf and Waldcafé Jäger in Bad Driburg for super-70s charm. Hotel Aldea in Berlin did the job, but the experience was tainted by the overeager cleaners.

Other notable highlights included unexpectedly being a part of a town celebration in Germany complete with a marching band, a few good runs on the autobahn and all the beautiful scenery from fields to forests throughout the journey.



But the standout of the trip was our time spent in the Alsace with Laure and her family at their winery. This region is so amazing it must be experienced first hand—so if you have the opportunity, don’t pass it up. A very special thank you to Laure for turning everything around for the better again on this trip.

Finally, thank you to Zev for putting up with the whole ‘grumpy cat’ persona—he’s not grumpy really.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

23 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 3 - Bad Driburg to Berlin


We went for breakfast at about 9am—in usual German fashion it was various meats and cheeses, breads and eggs, as much as you can manage. Suitably full-up we continued along the B-roads toward Berlin with rather ominous clouds looming ahead.

Nature called so we found the first somewhat discreet side road. Zev was skeptical about who might be down it, and sure enough a rather guilty-looking couple emerged. Ha! After a quick ‘comfort break’ we felt a few drops of rain as we set off again.

Zev here. Can you put down that bloody camera long enough for me to find a bush to pee in?!
My gear is waterproof but Zev’s trousers are not, and the rain started coming down much harder very quickly. We took refuge at a petrol station so Zev could put on the waterproof over-trousers and had a conversation with two chaps on quad bikes. These look like fun but they are lethal machines in the wrong hands (namely mine)!

We rode past field after field of blue and pink carnations and yellow daisies.

Fields of daisies as far as you can see.
Then we came across a strange tower, which had been retrofitted with a spiral staircase so passers-by could enjoy the view. I should mention that Zev is a hobby botanist making salves, lotions and tinctures, and he is always on the look-out for new plants. 

Up the hill from the fields we came across this odd tower and obelisk.
Zev’s botany skills kicked in straight away.
Of course that spiral staircase proved far too tempting—view from the top of the tower.
Proof that I am actually still a part of this trip.
Looking out the entrance of the tower.
A charming forest pathway running past the tower.
Heading into the east of the country we stopped briefly to find a restaurant and came across this amazing sight:

Germany has something for everyone—fast roads, slow roads,
scheissevideos and takko fashion (sandals with socks, presumably?) 
Unsuccessful—the whole country seemed to be literally closed up by 5pm on a Sunday evening—we carried on after feasting on a handmade pizza from a petrol station (clearly this isn’t a culinary tour!) and soon arrived in Brandenburg.

Brandenburg town square with fountain burbling away.
Clocktower in Brandenburg.
I’m gonna cut you.
This chap seemed none-too-pleased that I was snapping away photos...
Somewhere between Brandenburg and Berlin we decided to take an inviting-looking side road with scenery like the African savannah.

A tear in the fabric of space sending me to the African grasslands? Sadly not—just a field road. 
Back on track, the fields suddenly turned into dense forest with the sun trickling through the trees. I tried to capture this as best as I could on camera, but the following photo doesn’t begin to do it justice.

A rather stunning bit of forest.
My bike is getting close to its place of birth.
We arrived in Spandau at about 6:30pm and stopped to find a hotel. After several unsuccessful attempts—a couple with only street parking and one with the phone engaged for more than half an hour—I spoke with the bookings people at Novum Hotels and the lady found me a room (and secure parking) at the Hotel Aldea right in central Berlin. Perfect!

We went for a walkabout to find something to eat and even Berlin was suspiciously quiet—there were others out and about, but not many at all. Perhaps I’m too used to London’s unrelenting crowds but everywhere we’ve been so far feels so calm and quiet!

Berlin tower block—all satellite dishes tuned to the World Cup!

A slightly derelict but impressive stately building.

The most delicious meal I’ve had in quite some time...

...which was served to us at Efsane Bistro

So super dodge...
Back to the hotel, full of felafels, Mr Sandman had no troubles at all.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

Europe 2014: Day 2 - Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg


After a huge buffet-style breakfast we left the Fruitoff Tack around 11am and headed toward Aachen for a quick stop at FC Moto so Zev could buy a new helmet.

Mrs and Mr Tack, owners of the beautiful Fruithof Tack.
Ready to point the GPS to Berlin.
Belgium is full of speed cameras—there is one at nearly every traffic light. At a cost of several thousand Euros each, I’m not surprised the country has financial difficulties! Even more annoying are the 70kph speed limits off the motorways—most EU countries have 90–100kph speed limits on these types of roads. Cruise control is a very good thing on a bike...

Around lunchtime we stopped for another high end dining experience in a Carrefour car park.

Shut up. I haven’t had my Carrefour chocolate covered waffle yet.
The most amazing disabled sign I’ve ever seen—so loungy, and with curious alien shaped head.
We arrived in Aachen just after 4pm and discovered that FC Moto closed at 4. So no new helmet for Zev. I’d assumed a shop like this would be open until at least 5 or 6pm on a Saturday so this was somewhat of a disappointment. I programmed Berlin into the GPS and we set off again.

However, the B-roads afterwards made up for this. I’ve mentioned on a previous trip how well-engineered German roads are, and with 100kph limits you can cover ground effectively. The roads wind through fields, forests and little towns, all with quite spectacular scenery and very little traffic. It was almost like we had the countryside to ourselves.

We stopped for a quick rest at a park.

Zev here with a smile. These foxgloves would make a lovely spot
of tea—if you wanted to bump someone off, that is.
More than just a fern. It’s a German fern.
I’m no sculptor or art critic but bloody hell what a ghastly work this is...
Afterwards I hit the autobahn for an hour to make up a few miles. With the panniers and top box fitted BMW recommend a top speed of 180kph/110mph which is understandable considering they are as aerodynamic as bricks and can therefore potentially induce oscillations in the chassis (weaving) at very high speeds. For the record, at this speed the R1200GS gets 35mpg according to the computer—therefore you can empty a tank in less than 2 hours! And the engine howls (around 6,500rpm) with the exhaust flap wide open. Some of the sections of the clip are sped up 8x and apologies in advance for the crap audio.


One autobahn moment made me laugh—there were two people on a 4-cylinder Japanese adventure-style bike who were riding around 160kph/100mph when we passed by. About 10 minutes later, I heard what sounded like mosquito trapped in a hairdryer and they passed us again at around 12,000rpm. To the rider—if you read this, sorry you felt you had something to prove :)

We excused ourselves from the autobahn and headed back into the countryside, stopping to refuel in a little village which was decorated with bunting over the road. Almost immediately after we rode through, they closed the road and a marching band appeared out of nowhere. We’d inadvertently taken part in this town’s festival.

Zev here. I’m avoiding eye contact with Grandma and her
hot wheels behind me... I don’t know what her game is...
While refuelling we were serenaded by a marching band. Reason 117 to love Germany.
Continuing on we came across vast fields of bearded grass. I suspect this is grown to feed livestock during the winter months—but whatever the reason, the colours seemed to be part of an augmented reality.

And reason 118 would be the golden fields.
No. You’re wrong. This is not an HDR photo—these colours are real.
The great divide between young and old.
Yes, the temptation to ride the motorbike through one of these fields was almost overwhelming, but the idea of spending the rest of my holiday in a German prison put a damper on it.

Around 8pm we started to get tired and hungry. As we descended a hill we saw a glowing ‘m’ poking through the treetops so we gave in to all sense and shamefully stopped for Happy Meals. Bellies full of questionable content, I found a potential hotel nearby.

We arrived and the hotel was locked up tight—in fact the whole town of Bad Driburg was devoid of people and traffic, very strange for a Saturday night during the World Cup! After a few minutes a woman opened the door and said they were closed, but that she would call another hotel nearby.

Success! We had a nice room in an extraordinarily 70s-kitsch hotel on the top of a hill—the Waldcafé Jäger. They let me park the bike in their beer cellar, possibly the most unique parking space to date. Sadly, however, their WiFi was broken—I like to get an idea of where I’ll be travelling the next day as I wind down for bed. But such is life.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up