Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts

1 Jul 2014

Europe 2014: Day 12 - Eschdorf to London


Today was a day of motorways and covering ground as efficiently as possible—so unfortunately no photographs.

We went for breakfast around 9am and had a chat with the hotel owner who advised us to take it easy when we left as there had been three accidents—two of them fatal—in the past week in the area. A cyclist hit a tree but was not badly injured, another cyclist went off the road into a ravine and a motorcyclist collided with a truck on a bend. Not really what you want to hear before undertaking a 560km journey but good advice nevertheless.

The minor roads in Luxembourg are very narrow with some extremely tight corners and it’s easy to become complacent due to the low volume of traffic. It is absolutely essential to keep to the kerb side when following through the bends so the leaning bike doesn’t place your head into the oncoming lane.

At this time of year there are a lot of ‘sunny weather’ bikers out who are drawn to the beautiful roads in the area but who have limited experience—unfortunately this is a recipe for disaster. I ride year round in all weather on a daily basis and found some of the roads highly technical, so I can’t imagine riding quickly on these roads if it was my first ride since the previous summer. Despite the blanket 90kph speed limit, most of the corners can only be taken safely at speeds between 40 and 60kph.

We entered Belgium only 30 minutes after leaving (Luxembourg is only an hour from top to bottom) and slabbed it to Calais with a stop in Dunkerque to buy some food to eat on the train. The motorways may be boring but they are efficient when covering ground is a priority.

At the Eurotunnel terminal it cost €7 to change my ticket from Friday to today which was the difference between the two fares. Eurotunnel do run a good service, the ticketing is very accommodating. I naughtily went straight through instead of waiting for my slot and again was let onto the next available train saving an hour of waiting—every time I’ve crossed this has happened, I think once the cars are loaded they fill up any remaining space with any motorbikes that are waiting.

I’m aware that I should know better but we both got on the bike just before the train stopped on the UK side—the jostling is very disorienting (the road shouldn’t move!) and I almost had us over, avoiding a fall by the skin of my teeth... lesson learned.

The motorway back to London had fairly light traffic but the city was congested—the last eight miles are an insult on every trip, having to deal with London congestion when tired and so close to home.

Parked safe and sound at home, I was greeted by cheek covered in fur...

Milo’s favourite space for an afternoon snooze—squeezed into the sink.
I don’t doubt for a minute that a cat wouldn’t hesitate to eat your face if you died in your sleep, but alive and breathing, I also don’t doubt that they miss their servants immensely when you go away. He has been following me around all evening like a lost puppy.

I have laundry to do and I’m looking forward to a good night’s sleep in my own bed. Tomorrow will be all about sorting out my insurance claim and dropping off the bike with BMW to sort.

I will do a wrap up tomorrow (brain melting now) but a few fun facts for now:

  • Average consumption: 5.5 l/100km or 51mpg (brilliant for a fully loaded 1200cc bike)
  • Highest speed: 187kph/116mph (German autobahn)
  • Overall average speed: 42kph/26mph (including time stopped, for example traffic lights)
  • Moving average speed: 58kph/36mph
  • Distance covered: 3,500km/2,200mi

Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

Europe 2014: Day 11 - Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf


It was very sad to say goodbye to Laure but after two relaxing days in the Alsace it was time to make our way towards London.

After breakfast we packed our things and left around 11am towards Luxembourg. The weather was a bit patchy which was slightly concerning as our gear is no long waterproof now that it is riddled with holes. However, the worst we had was about 10 minutes of light rain.

The roads through the Vosges are perfect for motorbiking, one curve after another, up and down hills and through beautiful forests. At one point we hit the clouds and the temperature dropped to 11°C but as we descended it rose again to a perfect 23°C.

With all the dirt roads coming off the main highway, it was too tempting not to explore a few of them—almost all of them seemed to lead to logging areas, a bit of a shame to cut down such beautiful forests.

After we came out of the Vosges the scenery changed to fields.

Zev was a hit with the ladies.

Nice to be off the tarmac for a little while.

More fields—the kind you want to run through with your hands in the air like you just don’t care.

Zev here. I will not be running through the fields today.

I contemplated what it would be like to ride over the stack of logs but decided against it.

Apart from the droopy left handlebar, the R1200GS looks almost in one piece still...

Not long before it’s good as new again.

Zev again. Bored of posing for photos.

Nothing like smiling in front of a pile of logs.

After missing our turn the GPS rerouted us on this amazing single track road.

The bike waiting patiently while Zev explores the plant life.

Dried up brook winding its way through the forest.
We finally entered Luxembourg at 6pm and stopped in a small town to find a place to stop for the day. About 15 minutes away was Hôtel-Restaurant Braas Sàrl in Eschdorf which had reasonably priced rooms still available. Unfortunately the road was closed due to works so we had to go the long way round and progress was slow as I was feeling tired.

We arrived at about 7pm and checked in before making our way to the hotel restaurant for dinner. I’ve not seen 70s-vibe style like this hotel in a long, long time—even the lift doors were painted 70s tan with actual pushbuttons for the floor... amazing!

Zev contemplates life as he waits for his dinner.

The hotel lounge—super-70s style!

At night this little village in the middle of the Ardennes is so quiet you could hear a cat walking across the road—not a sound anywhere, almost eerie.

Great day today, but I’m feeling it now and it’s definitely time for a good night’s sleep.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

28 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 8 - Wemding to Ammerschwihr


We were up at 9am for breakfast and Carina and her family who own Hotel Ambiente very kindly asked if there was anything they could do with respect to our little mishap the day before. Although a good night’s sleep help to put things in perspective, we decided to head back in the direction of London.

However, about 10 minutes down the road we stopped and discussed if we were making the right decision. We decided not to go further away from home but to head straight to Ammerschwihr which, in a roundabout way, was sort of in the direction of home.

Sadly this meant missing out visiting our friends in Austria who were were very much looking forward to seeing. I sent a few texts to confirm our new plans with everyone and set the GPS for Ammerschwihr.

We stayed entirely off the motorways during the day and were treated to some beautiful roads through the Bavarian forests as we headed the 390km west. Our bodies were feeling a bit stiff from the fall so the day proved quite tiring.

A quick stop to rest the aching muscles—everything nearly back to normal with Zev inspecting the local foliage.

Apart from a drooping left handlebar and a few war wounds, it’s all smiles again! When life throws your lemons... and all that.
We arrived in Ammerschwihr at 7pm and brought our bags up to the guest room at our friend Laure’s family winery. After an hour’s pottering Laure and her partner Manu took us to Riquewihr via the vineyard roads for traditional Alsatian food.

Sadly, no lens can quite capture the beauty of the hills of grapevines—at least not from road level.

Snapping blind with the camera out the window of the car.

Jesus suffering as he keeps watch over the vines.

Endless beautiful views.

Just a regular road in Riquewihr—everywhere you look is full of charm.

Colourful buildings in traditional Alsatian style.

The town watering hole.

Zev inspects the cutting implements—I’m not sure if I should be concerned.

We stuffed ourselves silly on tarte flambée, one of the most recognised specialties from the area, traditionally just cream, onions and lardons on a thin dough based and fired in an extremely hot wood-fueled oven. We also tried the less traditional varieties which included various cheeses including the ridiculously stinky (but ridiculously delicious) Munster. When tarte flambée arrives with Munster cheese, it really does pong like the worst stinky feet imaginable.

Sadly, like so many picturesque places, there is no shortage of tourist tat.

After dinner the town took on a whole new feel in the dark.

A shop decorated with red flowers.

Zev, Laure and Manu inspect the goods.

A view down the main road of Riquewihr...

...and looking up the same road.

A road which looks like it should be in a child’s storybook.

Everywhere was quiet by 11pm.
I attempted to update this blog when we arrived back at the winery but was so exhausted I fell asleep with the laptop on top of me. There is no question that a couple days’ recuperation is needed. My muscles ache—I seem to have pulled one of my stomach muscles and the muscles around my hip are sore.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

21 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 1 - London to Sint-Gillis-Waas


So much for an early start—by the time we were fed, watered and my cousin Carol given a crash course in my cat’s dietary regime, plus a last minute update for something at work, we set off at 11am with no hope of making our scheduled 11:48am Eurotunnel crossing.

It was my hope to fit everything in the panniers without expanding them (makes filtering through traffic easier with a narrower backside) but I finally gave in. Regardless, I think it was an accomplishment to fit 15 days’ gear for two people completely in three panniers and a tankbag without having to sit on any of them to close them.

Traffic in London had died down from the morning rush and the M20 motorway was practically empty so we made good time, the journey taking around an hour and a half.

The woman in the Eurotunnel check-in booth was oh-so-Folkestone as she scolded us like naughty school boys about being 45 minutes late and handed over the boarding card for the next available train, insisting that Zev promise he wouldn’t drop it as we rode off. Eurotunnel provide a great service as they will honour bookings ±2 hours from the scheduled time, presumably to prevent people from driving dangerously to make their slot—however this can involve a wait if it’s a particularly busy day.

No shame in a clean GS—waiting in terminal hell for our new slot
After 25 minutes I got tired of waiting under the beating sun at the terminal, and despite having an ’N’ crossing slot, tried my luck while they were calling the ‘K’ slot. My luck paid off as they didn’t even check, and just waved me through toward border control.

The first booth is to check out of the UK, and the second is to check into France. Of course these are both EU areas so they are only interested in people trying to transport restricted items (including pets which require a pet passport to re-enter the UK). It is unusual for motorbikes to be stopped due to their minimal cargo capacity. In fact, French border control wasn’t interested in seeing passports and didn’t even ask either of us to remove our helmets.

We ended up getting on the ‘K’ train along with about 10 other bikers, all with UK registrations, distributed between two carriages. A few Triumph Explorers, a Daytona, at least three R1200RTs, two F800GSs and a blue Yamaha XT660Z Ténéré (like this bike a lot!) among others. Mine was the only R1200GS which is slightly surprising as this is the top selling bike over 600cc in the UK.

Hello. I’m Zev. I’m hot and bothered because I kept my helmet on the whole time we were queued
in the beating sun before boarding the train. Now it’s all wet inside. So shut up and let me read.
The RT behind my bike in the photo above belongs to a Scotsman who’d just toured England. He’s now off to the Black Forest. He commended Zev’s bravery for agreeing to ride pillion for 3,000 miles.

The Eurotunnel trains are so smooth, no tie downs are required—bikes must be on the side stand, in 1st gear angled toward the kerb in the carriage. Couldn’t be easier.

Hello. Zev again. Not only are you still disturbing my reading, but now you’re interfering
with my yoga moves. I hate you and I’m going to shove that camera down your throat.
All said and done, and jumping an hour ahead from GMT to CET we came out the other side about 3pm. Out the other side and up to speed, we were feeling somewhat more refreshed and in better spirits. As soon as we crossed over the border into Belgium (about 25 minutes ride) I exited the motorway and reprogrammed the GPS to route on the backroads.

I’ll pause for a moment to mention that we are already altering the original route plan—skipping the visit to my family in Sneek as they are away. So I’ve pointed the GPS to Aachen (originally planned for the end of the trip) for a stop at FC-Moto so Zev can buy a new helmet to replace his ageing (and very noisy) Shark S500.

We reached Brugge around 5pm and it was overwhelmed by mainly English-speaking tourists (UK and American/Canadian)—as in, we could barely get through the streets. I finally made my way to my favourite little Egyptian restaurant opposite the Frietmuseum and was disappointed to read a note on the door that the owner was on holidays until next week. The other restaurants and cafés nearby had menus starting from €25, a bit steep for a light supper, and clearly cashing in on the tourists.

We figured this was our cue to leave Brugge with empty bellies and find a supermarket along the way. I adore Brugge, but visits are best left for the off season—February/March and October/November when the streets are quiet and the restaurants return to ‘local’ pricing.

Belgium’s roads have improved substantially since even last year with barely a pothole in sight, and the backroads cut through some beautiful scenery—tree lined stretches, red poppies everywhere and fields of onions and corn. Because of the proximity to the North Sea, northern Belgium can be extremely gusty, and there are sections of planted forests which act as windbreakers. These are found around northern France as well.

We came across Buurtwinkels OKay supermarket in Assenede and chose a few bits and pieces for an on-the-go dinner. I love that AriZona tea drinks—my sugar rush of choice—are offered everywhere in Belgium as they are near impossible to find in the UK. However, I discovered that supermarkets in Belgium don’t take debit/credit cards (they only accept cash or a special local credit card for this purpose from what I understood) and I hadn’t stopped at an ATM to withdraw cash. The cashier was kind enough to hang on to our groceries while we rode a few kilometres to the nearest cash point.

After our classy car park dinner party we carried on in the general direction of Aachen. By 8:30pm I was feeling more and more distracted so it was time to fire up the booking.com app to find someplace suitable to settle down for the evening.

And what a place we found—the Fruithof Tack in Sint-Gillis-Waas, not far from Antwerp. As the name implies, it is a B&B located next to apple and pear orchards. The whole place, from top to bottom, is absolutely gorgeous and the owners welcomed us into their home with local lagers and an hour of warm and friendly conversation. They opened up their fruit processing area so the bike would be secure and even insisted on carrying up the luggage. Couldn’t have asked for more—highly recommended.

After a day where things were just a bit more difficult than they should have been (and not enough photos were taken), being able to type this post from one of the most comfortable beds I’ve experienced in a long time was the perfect way to wind down.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

9 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Route


In 11 days I’ll be handing over the keys for my flat to my cousin as I embark on a 5,000 km/3,000 mile pan-European adventure over 15 days, which will also mark my first proper journey on my R1200GS.

The preliminary route is as follows, starting and ending in London:

  • Sneek, Netherlands
  • Berlin, Germany
  • Prague, Czech Republic
  • Wemding, Germany
  • Flachau, Austria
  • Vellano, Italy
  • Tende, France
  • Stelvio, Italy
  • Ammerschwihr, France
  • Luxembourg
  • Aachen, Germany
  • London, UK
I will be accompanied again this year by Zev who has the dubious pleasure of riding pillion. As journeys like these generally take on an organic quality once under way, the route may change as we go.

More soon, including a slightly more refined packing list compared to last year (ie less stuff)!


23 Jan 2014

Biking culture in Paris


I spent 3 days in Paris this week for a ‘beat the January blues’ get-away. Although I travelled from London by Eurostar and not by bike, I took great interest this time about the biking culture in France’s capital.

People tend to buy expensive scooters over mid-range motorbikes in Paris, which is quite the opposite of London. A popular mode is the Piaggio MP3 because it can be locked upright when stopped at traffic lights. The French seem to have an appreciation for the effortlessness of a twist-and-go bikes for city riding.

The local authorities in Paris allow bikes to park anywhere for free, as long as they are not blocking cars or pedestrians. The rule is ~2m width for pedestrians to walk past (or on narrow roads, at a minimum, enough space for a wheelchair to get through).

As illustrated in the photo you can see just how popular bikes are in this city. The sensible and realistic parking laws alone encourage more people to get on bikes.

The popularity of bikes shows in other ways also. There is virtually no congestion in Paris, even at peak times. Only a few of the main roads had heavy traffic around 5-7pm but everywhere else had amazingly light traffic for such a large city—except when a bin lorry was blocking the road, for example.

But this brought out another bit of French biking culture—it appears to be socially acceptable for motorbikes to ride in pedestrian areas or on the pavement to get past obstructions on the road, as long as they do so courteously. The authorities seem to turn a blind eye to this and pedestrians were not bothered either.

The French have a certain respect for bikers of all types—more so than many other countries, including the UK. They recognise the benefits to reducing congestion and pollution and society shows its appreciation to bikers by accommodating them in ways from which many other countries could learn.

Once last thing that was interesting to me is that, while the majority of bikes in Paris are scooters, the only others you seem to see in any great numbers are huge bikes such as the Honda Goldwing, BMW R1200RT/GS and K1600GT/L etc. Seems to be one extreme or the other in the spectrum of available models—hardly any midsize bikes.

The shameful disappointment of Sacré-Cœur



I felt cheated out of my opportunity to visit Sacré-Cœur during my visit this week. As I made my way up the stairs from the carousel I was accosted by the infamous ‘string men’.

In brief, string men are con artists who approach unsuspecting passers by, tightly tie a coloured string around their wrist or finger and then demand payment, usually 20€.

Photo credit: Europe for Visitors website

Being the middle of the day on a Wednesday in January (when most of the residents of Paris are in work and few tourists are seen) I was almost the only person in the grounds leading up to Sacré-Cœur other than a group of about 10 of the string men.


One of the men approached me with a beaming smile, asking if I spoke English. I ignored him and kept walking. He became agitated and asked why I was walking away from him but didn’t follow.

One of his counterparts then approached me asking where I was from (in English). I kept walking, hands in my pockets, and within seconds I was surrounded by three of them.

They said their string bracelets were for the church and I had to take (buy) one. I said: ‘Non, merci’ several times, and then explained: ‘Je veux rien de toi’ (I want nothing from you).

At that point one of them aggressively tried to pull my hand out of my pocket. I realise that these are not violent people and therefore my safety was not at risk, but nevertheless I am not a small chap and it’s pretty ballsy to grab me in broad daylight.


I turned to the bloke and scowled: ‘Retire ta main maintenant’ (Remove your hand now).

They all left me alone at this point but I was so put off from the experience I had no further desire to climb the stairs to the church.

I’ve visited Paris perhaps 12 times previously and have never experienced this level of aggression with the scammers/con artists etc. I guess business is slow at this time of year.

I can imagine someone unprepared would feel extremely intimidated and vulnerable in this situation yet the authorities seem to turn a blind eye to this behaviour. What a shameful disappointment.

Don’t get me wrong—Paris is an extremely safe city and one of my favourite big cities to visit but I was really taken aback by what happened and felt it spoiled the experience of Sacré-Cœur on this occasion. I just wanted to take a few photos from the viewpoint at the top after all.

Paris at night


A collection of photos taken 21-23 January with Hipstamatic.

Tour Saint-Jacques, rue de Rivoli

Paroisse Saint Merry, rue de la Verrerie

Centre Georges Pompidou, rue Beaubourg

Centre Georges Pompidou, rue Beaubourg

Vegetables on display, Carrefour Market, rue de Clignancourt

Adonis Fleurs, rue du Faubourg Poissonnière

Le Grand Rex, Boulevard Poissonnière

Billboard for Le Grand Rex, rue Poissonnière

Macaroons and cakes, Boulangerie Kayser, rue des Petits Carreaux

Window display, Reflets de Paris (mannequin shop), rue Réaumur

Rue des Lombards

Stairwell to the toilets, Flam’s (tart flambée restaurant), rue des Lombards