Showing posts with label Hotel Ambiente. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hotel Ambiente. Show all posts

3 Jul 2014

Europe 2014: Wrapping up


How to wrap up... well I’ll start with the negative bits of which there are only a few. The elephant in the room is of course the oil slick between the Czech villages of Leontýn and Karlov which caused the bike to spit us off at 70kph—you can read more here. Coincidentally this is by far the most read entry about this trip on my blog—you guys are bloodthirsty!!

A big negative was missing out visiting our friends in Austria—we were really looking forward to seeing them, but given the mishap, we felt it was best not to go even further from home before the bike could be repaired. Unfortunately this also meant I wasted €40 on vignettes for Austria and Switzerland but that’s not the end of the world.

Perhaps minor in the grand scheme of things, but it really pissed me off that the cleaners came into the room two mornings in a row at the hotel in Berlin at stupid o’clock (around 8am)—with the ‘do not disturb’ hanger on the door. Few things wind me up but I do like my privacy—why bother making these hangers?

Oh, and the rubbish timing of Berlin traffic lights—needlessly causing congestion—the worst I’ve come across in any city.

Finally, the BMW Navigator IV (aka Garmin 660) wound me up a few times because it is bloody slow when calculating routes avoiding the main roads/motorways—I mean have a coffee and a sandwich slow. What takes the GPS app in my iPhone three seconds to calculate was taking up to 10 minutes to calculate on the dedicated Navigator. The workaround is to avoid calculating routes to places further than a few hundred kilometres at a time. I understand the Navigator V is much quicker but I’m not spending £500 on another GPS when this one otherwise works great.

Now the positives. Firstly the technology bits—a special mention once again for the Sena SMH5 bluetooth headsets. The best technology is that which works invisibly in the background and Sena have really nailed it with this product. Never a problem and two days’ battery life out of a single charge. My camera, laptop and phone all happily buzzed along as well.

The bike was great, aforementioned incident notwithstanding. All loaded up we were fairly close to the weight limit but there was more than enough power to go as fast as you like. Even fully loaded the brakes are strong enough to lift the rear wheel and the clutch feather light. With the Gear Shift Assist Pro system, touring is effortless—despite a few random missed shifts where the system seemed to get confused—overall, well worth the extra cost.

It seems the days of boxers engines drinking oil are over, as it didn’t consume any. Average fuel consumption was a very acceptable 51mph—better than many 600cc bikes (my old Honda Hornet got around 45mph), and only 9mph less than my F800GS on a similar trip. For reference, the worst I saw on the computer was 13mpg on heavy throttle accelerating up a long, steep hill and the best was around 75mpg on cruise control at 50mph on level ground.

There is a minor quirk of the fuelling system on this bike—modern engines cut the fuel flow while decelerating (to reduce pollution and improve fuel consumption) and this ‘feature’ made itself known at times while maintaining a low speed (30mph) while travelling on a slight decline, resulting in some roughness.

All in all, the new R1200GS is a reliable, well engineered machine that is great fun even while weighted down for full touring duty. It never leaves you wanting for something better and puts a smile on your face no matter what type of road you’re on.

Locations, locations... Loved Berlin, loved Prague—such different cities, both with something for everyone. The botanical gardens were a highlight—an oasis in the middle of a busy city.

The Fruithof Tack in Belgium, Louis Léger Hotel in Prague and Hotel Ambiente in Wemding all tie for best accommodation. Special mention to Hôtel-Restaurant Braas Sàrl in Eschdorf and Waldcafé Jäger in Bad Driburg for super-70s charm. Hotel Aldea in Berlin did the job, but the experience was tainted by the overeager cleaners.

Other notable highlights included unexpectedly being a part of a town celebration in Germany complete with a marching band, a few good runs on the autobahn and all the beautiful scenery from fields to forests throughout the journey.



But the standout of the trip was our time spent in the Alsace with Laure and her family at their winery. This region is so amazing it must be experienced first hand—so if you have the opportunity, don’t pass it up. A very special thank you to Laure for turning everything around for the better again on this trip.

Finally, thank you to Zev for putting up with the whole ‘grumpy cat’ persona—he’s not grumpy really.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

28 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 8 - Wemding to Ammerschwihr


We were up at 9am for breakfast and Carina and her family who own Hotel Ambiente very kindly asked if there was anything they could do with respect to our little mishap the day before. Although a good night’s sleep help to put things in perspective, we decided to head back in the direction of London.

However, about 10 minutes down the road we stopped and discussed if we were making the right decision. We decided not to go further away from home but to head straight to Ammerschwihr which, in a roundabout way, was sort of in the direction of home.

Sadly this meant missing out visiting our friends in Austria who were were very much looking forward to seeing. I sent a few texts to confirm our new plans with everyone and set the GPS for Ammerschwihr.

We stayed entirely off the motorways during the day and were treated to some beautiful roads through the Bavarian forests as we headed the 390km west. Our bodies were feeling a bit stiff from the fall so the day proved quite tiring.

A quick stop to rest the aching muscles—everything nearly back to normal with Zev inspecting the local foliage.

Apart from a drooping left handlebar and a few war wounds, it’s all smiles again! When life throws your lemons... and all that.
We arrived in Ammerschwihr at 7pm and brought our bags up to the guest room at our friend Laure’s family winery. After an hour’s pottering Laure and her partner Manu took us to Riquewihr via the vineyard roads for traditional Alsatian food.

Sadly, no lens can quite capture the beauty of the hills of grapevines—at least not from road level.

Snapping blind with the camera out the window of the car.

Jesus suffering as he keeps watch over the vines.

Endless beautiful views.

Just a regular road in Riquewihr—everywhere you look is full of charm.

Colourful buildings in traditional Alsatian style.

The town watering hole.

Zev inspects the cutting implements—I’m not sure if I should be concerned.

We stuffed ourselves silly on tarte flambée, one of the most recognised specialties from the area, traditionally just cream, onions and lardons on a thin dough based and fired in an extremely hot wood-fueled oven. We also tried the less traditional varieties which included various cheeses including the ridiculously stinky (but ridiculously delicious) Munster. When tarte flambée arrives with Munster cheese, it really does pong like the worst stinky feet imaginable.

Sadly, like so many picturesque places, there is no shortage of tourist tat.

After dinner the town took on a whole new feel in the dark.

A shop decorated with red flowers.

Zev, Laure and Manu inspect the goods.

A view down the main road of Riquewihr...

...and looking up the same road.

A road which looks like it should be in a child’s storybook.

Everywhere was quiet by 11pm.
I attempted to update this blog when we arrived back at the winery but was so exhausted I fell asleep with the laptop on top of me. There is no question that a couple days’ recuperation is needed. My muscles ache—I seem to have pulled one of my stomach muscles and the muscles around my hip are sore.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

Europe 2014: Day 7 - Prague to Wemding


We left Prague around 9:30am towards Germany. Traffic was reasonably light and before long we were in the rural countryside.

Around 11:30am we had a slight setback. We were riding down a gentle hill at about 70kph/45mph (for reference the speed limit was 90kph/55mph) and without any warning at all the bike popped out from under us and we slid to a stop on the tarmac. As I was sliding I could see the bike sliding on its left side ahead of me until it reached the grassy shoulder where the wheels caught and the bike flipped over onto its right side.

We both got straight up to our feet and looked at each other, completely perplexed and somewhat shocked. After determining that nothing hurt, we realised with relief that neither of us were injured and our gear had taken the brunt of the fall. I had slid on my left side and Zev had slid on his bottom, dragging his left arm.

A few seconds later a young chap came along and stopped to help us put the bike upright and then carried on his way. I noticed there was oil all over the engine and tyres and realised we had ridden onto an unnoticed slick of tarry oil. From the direction we were travelling, the angle of the sun made it blend into the road, looking like just another patched area of tarmac.

I called 112 (emergency line) and explained what happened and they sent out the police. Meanwhile I took photographs of the area and the damaged parts of the bike. I called my insurer and went through the details.

An hour later, the police still hadn’t arrived so I called 112 again. The lady explained that they couldn’t find where we were, and I realised in my shaken state I’d given the postcode instead of the road number. Not long afterwards a police van arrived.

The two PCs documented the scene and marked the skid-marks from the bike’s tyres and crash bars. They called the fire department to spread sand over the oil slick and then took our passports, the bike registration and insurance documents and my driving licence, and performed a mandatory breathalyser test which of course read zero.

Finally at about 3pm we finished up and I was presented with my documents and a police report to give to my insurer. I had a look at the bike together with one of the PCs and we couldn’t find any mechanical damage—the crash bars did their job remarkably well without so much as a scratch on the engine casings. However there was quite a lot of cosmetic damage and the panniers took a beating. He could not see any roadworthiness issues and donated a roll of packaging tape to seal off the broken bits of the panner and reattach the left hand guard. With that, off they went. It seems the R1200GS—even the new, allegedly more delicate water-cooled version—is a tough old bastard of a bike.

Looking down the road from the left side the oil patch is clearly evident.

From the right side it blended in with the other patchwork. Skidmarks from where the rear wheel struck the ground numerous times on the right and from the front wheel on the left while the bike was sliding.

Windscreen, air deflector and headlamp subframe all scratched up. The windscreen height adjustment mechanism still works but is fairly bent out of alignment. Both front indicators were pulled from their mounts but fortunately still function.

Crash bar scratched up but did its job protecting the cylinder head, and small scuffs on the top of the radiator cover, the air intake and the BMW emblem.

Knackered pannier but still opens and closes. No longer sits level and expansion mechanism fused.

Oil from the road which sprayed up from the tyre onto the engine casing and exhaust.

Another shot of the windscreen and broken wind deflector. Hand guard mount shattered and handlebar bent on the left side (sits about 1cm lower than the right but full movement still possible without interference apart from activating the horn at full lock. Both mirrors were spinning freely but retightened with the onboard toolkit.

Closeup of the destroyed pannier—I sealed off the gap with packaging tape which was kindly donated by the police.

Zev’s jacket where his arm dragged on the ground.

Zev’s bottom where he slid to a stop on the tarmac. Although these look like jeans, they are kevlar reinforced denim and the fabric withstood the abrasion from 70kph without fraying.

Outside of my left leg where the fabric wore through to the inner guards.

My left sleeve.

My jacket—the area where the fabric wore through was where my wallet caused the pocket to bulge.
A testament to why the right gear is important—we both walked away from a crash at almost highway speed without so much as a bruise. A few sore muscles—that’s it. Wearing a t-shirt and shorts, for example, would have resulted in skin and possibly bone grafts, plus time in hospital and countless hours of rehabilitation. Thankfully, neither of us hit our heads on the ground, so the helmets remained undamaged.

That said, there was also an element of luck—we were very lucky there were no other vehicles on the road and that we slid to a stop without striking anything (trees, signposts etc). Of course the mind goes a bit mad with ‘what ifs’ and the like—had I been a little bit to the right in the lane I would have avoided the oil slick all together, or if the oil slick had been mid corner on one of the mountain roads things would have turned out far worse.

It would have been easy to have my insurance repatriate the bike to the UK and fly us home via the most efficient route but I don’t think this would have been the best course of action, as it would have been far too easy to never get on a motorbike again. Put another way, I snowboarded for many, many years when I was younger—statistically a far more dangerous sport than motorbiking—and even after a particularly bad fall where I broke my arm in eight places at once, I was back on the slopes two days later with my arm in a sling (much to my doctor’s chagrin I’m certain).

With this in mind, after the police finished writing their report, we decided to carry on to Wemding as planned, have a good night’s sleep and then decide what to do. 

After having another thorough check of the bike to ensure nothing was inhibited with the steering and other mechanical bits we were confident it was undamaged functionally. To make up for lost time we took mainly the motorways and arrived in Wemding at about 7:30pm.

Hotel Ambiente where we were booked appeared locked up, but we found a small note on the door to ring a number. Due to holidays the restaurant was closed but the hotel was still open. We were shown to our rooms which were actually part of the hotel’s spa area so we had access to a beautiful walk-in wet room to have a shower and freshen up after the day’s ordeal.

We had dinner at a restaurant on the other side of the town square and were treated to traditional German fare, including a delicious warm apple strudel with ice cream for dessert. At that point it was time to call it a night.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

7 Jul 2013

The trip in hindsight


While suffering at home in London in 30°C weather with clear skies and nearly 100% humidity, and after nearly a whole bottle of Chat-en-oeuf circulating through my veins I thought it would be a suitable time to reflect on the trip.

Hightlights? Visiting Tom in Lille, my friend Laure in Ammerschwihr, my friend Renate's family in Flachau and meeting Dirkyan in Belgium all top the list.

There were a few more. Hôtel La Val in Ruèras Switzerland with its kind and accommodating husband and wife team, Hôtel Ambiente in Wemding Germany with its considered mix of old and new carried out to perfection, and Urberacher Hof in Urberach Germany with mum and daughter team Margarete and Gisela who made us feel part of the family. Honourable mention to Hôtel du Commerce in Thônes France with its tip top restaurant and meeting Zoë our expat Irish hostess (and fellow biker).

Every country we went to was full of generous, kind and welcoming people without exception. It’s interesting how countries gain reputations from visitors but our experience shattered all the preconceptions. From petrol station attendants to restaurant servers and hoteliers, everyone did more than their fair share to make us feel welcome. I don't know how much of that was down to travelling by motorbike but it doesn't matter really.

But which country did we enjoy most? I would have to say Germany. There is a certain acceptance ingrained in German culture toward outsiders that I can't quite put my finger on. The roads on the whole are an engineer’s wet dream with curves and bends seemingly designed to fling a motorbike around. And the autobahn is always close by when the temptation of opening up the taps on the bike becomes too strong to resist.

I can’t neglect the Grimsel Pass in Switzerland, however. This caught me out, temperature dropping from 17°C at the bottom to 0.5°C at the top with a full on snowstorm. Perhaps I didn't express earlier just how terrifying the experience was... I really thought, at a few points, that the next hairpin corner would be my last, slipping on black ice and sliding off the guardrail-less edge and smashing to our deaths on the rocks hundreds of metres below. But I wouldn't have traded the experience for anything.

To balance the Grimsel, the Cormet de Roselend was the definition of joy on a bike, especially on the way back with a mad German man on an R1200GS as a pace bike in front of us. I think we caught him out keeping up on a fully loaded F800GS, a testament to the capability of BMW’s midrange GS bike.

Finally, the real star of the show was the bike itself. After nearly 3,000 miles of heavy going (225kg including us and the luggage) it kept chugging along without retort, not giving a single problem along the entire journey. True, I replaced the rear brake pads in Austria, but they were nearly shot when I left London. I checked the oil a few times along the way but I needn't have bothered—it didn't use a drop. And the economy was the biggest surprise—60mpg on the nose. Considering the weight and the steep mountains we crossed, this figure is nothing short of a miracle.

I can't wait for the next adventure later this summer—though it won't be quite so far from home, I'm thinking Wales or Scotland.


Alps 2013 quick links


Day 1: London to Lille
Day 2: Lille to Hagondange
Day 3: Slow road to Ammerschwihr
Day 4: Ammerschwihr
Day 5: Ammerschwihr to Thônes
Day 6: Thônes to.... Thônes
Day 7: Thônes to Ruèras
Day 8: Ruèras to Flachau
Day 9: Flachau
Day 10: Flachau to Wemding
Day 11: Wemding to Urberach
Day 12: Urberach to Antwerp
Day 13: Antwerp to London

The gear and how it held up
The trip in hindsight

3 Jul 2013

Day 11: Wemding to Urberach


I came down with a nasty cough/head cold which kept me up with hiccups and heartburn much of the night. With breakfast running only until 9am I had no choice but to get myself up but couldn't face anything more than a yogurt and some melon.

Hotel Ambiente looking fantastic despite the cloudy skies.

Feeling less than myself I could barely bring myself to carry down the panniers, sweating like I'd run a marathon. We got underway and the cool air helped matters considerably with the odd rain shower actually refreshing as we rode toward Kitzingen.

Petrol station colour matched to the bike.

We arrived in Kitzingen around noontime—having been 14 years since I was last there, I couldn't remember where to go to find the cemetery where Vlad (Dracula) the Impaler was buried.

The tourist information office was closed between noon and 2pm so I stopped by the local police station where I was buzzed into a rather stark and intimidating office.

However, I was greeted by a smily and rather round older policeman with an enormous German-style moustache and his colleague who looked about 12 years old. I'm quite certain it wasn't the first time they were asked about this as they had a good old laugh when I told them where I wanted to go. Nice to see the Bundespolizei actually have a sense of humour as they always look so serious and suspicious when you see them in the open.

We got to the cemetery which is just over the road from the town's crooked church spire which, through the years, has leaned directly toward Dracula's grave. The spire has openings in the shape of inverted crosses so that at nighttime the light inside will fall on the ground the correct way up in relation to the spire itself.

The crooked spire.

Dracula's grave protected from vandalism by the wrought iron gate.

On the ceiling above the grave are angels throwing up on the bodies of people Dracula killed in battle.

Close-up of one of the skulls.

A shot of the rest of the cemetery.

We carried on toward the village of Giebelstadt where I stayed with friends in the (now disused) US army barracks in 1999. Along the way we stopped to have a bite to eat at a little bakery in Fuchsstadt where I accidentally knocked over the bakery's sandwich board with my right pannier.

The bakery in Fuchsstadt.

Unfortunately I couldn't find the barracks—it seems they were knocked down after the US army abandoned the base so we topped up with petrol and started moving in the direction of Aachen.

Still not feeling my best we stopped more often than usual, in one place on the side of a farm road where we were approached by a very excited black dog and a farmer woman who spoke German with the strangest accent I've heard. I don't think she saw tourists often and was interested in hearing where we'd been and how long we'd been travelling.

Happy pup.

Rural farm road.

By 5pm I was done for the day, finding it increasingly difficult to focus on the road so it was time to find a place to spend the night. My phone picked up the Urberacher Hof 20km away in Urberach which was favourably rated and only €50 for the night.

When we arrived I have to admit I would have taken the room even if it was lined with cockroaches but it was a wonderfully quirky and slightly kitsch mum-and-daughter operation with a homely atmosphere.

The owners allowed me to park in their back garden for added security.

We had dinner at the gasthaus which specialised in pub-style food.

The gasthaus.

Perhaps boring to look at but one of the most delicious salads I've had recently.

Half a deep fried chicken with chips—this is what holidays are about.

The view from our table.

Bellies full it was time to get some sleep and hopefully shake off my nasty cold.


Alps 2013 quick links


Day 1: London to Lille
Day 2: Lille to Hagondange
Day 3: Slow road to Ammerschwihr
Day 4: Ammerschwihr
Day 5: Ammerschwihr to Thônes
Day 6: Thônes to.... Thônes
Day 7: Thônes to Ruèras
Day 8: Ruèras to Flachau
Day 9: Flachau
Day 10: Flachau to Wemding
Day 11: Wemding to Urberach
Day 12: Urberach to Antwerp
Day 13: Antwerp to London

The gear and how it held up
The trip in hindsight