Europe 2014: Packing list

Every time I travel I vow to take less with me the next time. This trip will be two up and, with the plastic Vario panniers, packing items on top is not an option.

Some of the items below are non-essential—for example, a modern smartphone can take photos and video rivalling a point-and-shoot camera, update a blog etc, but if space permits, I prefer to take my heavy SLR and a laptop which is far less cumbersome than banging out several paragraphs on a tiny phone screen.

I could probably do without the tyre repair kit and foot pump since I’m not going outside the range of BMW Assist but these items could potentially save me a wait. And the AA batteries and charger for the flash are unlikely to see any action since they last 400+ flashes on average.

If I was going someplace more remote I would take a tool pouch with only the tools and sockets applicable to the bike (rather than the whole set). And let’s face it, I’m not going to rip apart a bike still under warranty at the side of the road when BMW Assist is a phone call away.

Got any packing tips of your own to share? Leave me a comment below!

---

Bike

• BMW R1200GS TE with OEM vario cases and inner bags (note 1)
• OEM accessories including steel crash bars, LED auxiliary headlights, secure oil filler plug and Gear Shift Assist Pro
• Michelin Anakee 3s
• BMW Navigator IV GPS
• OEM first aid kit (under pillion seat)
• St Christopher talisman
• Swiss and Austrian motorway vignettes—Toll Tickets offers fantastic service for these
• 2x disposable breathalysers and reflective helmet stickers to meet French regulations (note 2)

---

Tank bag

• GoPro Hero3 Black Edition with Battery Bacpac
• Nikon D7000 with 18–105mm zoom lens, 50mm prime lens, polarising filters and SB-900 speedlight (note 3)
• iPhone 5 (note 4)
• 4x Sanyo Eneloop AA batteries with USB charger (took my own advice)
• DIN to cigar socket adapter
• 3-port USB high speed multi-charger
• micro/mini USB cables
• documentation wallet with VED (registration), insurance, passports, EHIC (EU health insurance card), BMW Assist card, credit/debit cards, driving licence plus paper counterpart, emergency map and plastic emergency bike key
• ear plugs
• packs of dried fruit—apple slices, mangos, bananas and apricots
• packs of beef jerky—classic and peppered

---

Panniers

• spare gloves
• t-shirts, vests, shorts, trousers, trainers, underwear, socks (note 5)
• emergency repair kit for tubeless tyres
• DRC mini foot pump
• folding breakdown warning triangle
• reflective vests (Icon PDX jacket is hi-vis yellow)
• carrier bags
• personal hygiene items (note 6)
• small gifts for friends/family
• MacBook Air with charger (note 7)

---

Me

• Sena SMH-5 bluetooth intercom
• Icon Variant helmet
• Icon Patrol Raiden waterproof jacket with thermal liner
• Icon Patrol Raiden waterproof trousers
• Bering gloves
• TCX X-Desert waterproof boots
• Caterpillar shatterproof safety sunglasses
• CamelBak 1.5l hydration pack (note 8)

---

Zev

• Sena SMH-5 bluetooth intercom
• Shark S500 helmet
• BMW Boulder 2 jacket with waterproof, thermal liner
• Icon PDX waterproof/windproof shell jacket
• BMW City 2 trousers
• waterproof over-trousers
• Hein Gericke gloves
• Icon Patrol waterproof boots

---

Notes

1. The BMW pannier inner bags seem to be much maligned by the GS community because they leave a lot of empty space in the crevices of the oddly shaped panniers, but they are very convenient when arriving at a B&B or hotel because you can swing them over your shoulder and walk straight in without fumbling with heavy panniers. The leftover space can be utilised alongside the inner bags to store the tyre repair kit, foot pump, warning triangle, reflective vests and carrier bags—items not required in the room overnight.
   
   
2. French regulations—just to be difficult—require carrying a breathalyser and having reflective stickers on your helmet. The stickers must be a permanent type—however, there is no way I’m ruining a perfectly good helmet to comply to this ridiculous and baseless regulation, so I use removable reflective stickers which look/function in the same manner as the permanent type. It would be a bad day indeed if the gendarmerie started picking at stickers at the side of the road to test their permanence so this is not a concern. Another regulation is to carry a spare bulb for each type fitted to a vehicle, however the R1200GS uses only LED lighting which are not user replaceable and therefore the regulation in not applicable in this case. For the record, I have never been stopped in France for anything in 21 years of driving/riding there.
   
   
3. The Nikon D7000 is not what you would call light or compact, but it will do at least 1,000 photos on a single charge without flash—so no battery charger required. The speedlight runs off rechargeable AA batteries and lasts around 400 flashes at varying intensities.
   
   
4. Any smartphone—iOS, Android, whatever your preference—is an essential item for travel. The Booking.com app is a must-have when travelling on your own schedule because the ‘tonight’ function finds you hotels in the area which have knocked down the price last minute to fill any remaining rooms—I’ve seen discounts up to 70%. Other apps, such as Trip Journal, are great for tracking and allow you to post your progress online if you wish. The Google Translate app enables you to speak into the phone and have it translate into a huge number of languages instantly—it will even speak the phrase in your chosen language. While roaming data fees with a UK phone within the EU are inexpensive (£1/20mb or £3/100mb), it’s worthwhile to check that your carrier has enabled data roaming for your account and that you have a suitable data plan. Just save the photo/video uploads until you are somewhere with WiFi. If you are spending a considerable amount of time in one country, consider purchasing a local pay-as-you-go SIM card. You will need to ensure your phone is unlocked beforehand—in the UK this can be done for free or for a nominal fee, depending on your carrier, usually at any time after the first 30 days of your contract, if applicable.
   
   
5. Clothing per person—two each of t-shirts and vests, one each of shorts and trousers, four each of underwear and socks, one pair of trainers. If necessary, there are always coin-operated laundromats. Alternatively, items can be freshened by washing in a little shampoo, then tightly rolling in a towel and hanging overnight to dry.
   
   
6. Personal hygiene items include the usuals such as toothbrushes, toothpaste, mouthwash, body wash, deodorant, moisturiser, painkillers, nail clippers, cleansing wipes, alcohol gel etc. For toothpaste and deodorant I buy a travel-sized tube and mini aerosol deodorant (sorry, eco-terrorists) which is sufficient for 2 people over 15 days. For the other items, Muji is great for folding toothbrushes and travel-sized, liquid-proof tubes and bottles to fill with body wash, mouthwash, moisturiser etc. Any medicines (even painkillers) should be kept in their original packaging/blister packs when travelling across borders to avoid potential hassle. Everything fits in a compact toiletries case which takes up almost no space.
   
   
7. Why a laptop instead of a tablet? The wedge shaped 11” MacBook Air is 490 cubic cm and 1,080g compared to 421 cubic cm and 660g for an iPad—almost the same size and with similar battery life, but with the advantage of a physical keyboard and a fully featured computer. I leave the case at home and pack the laptop between t-shirts.
   
   
8. When new, CamelBaks give water a dodgy, plastic taste, so fill and empty the pack twice a day for a week before you travel. Once broken in, a hydration pack is something you’ll never want to be without for long distance travel. In warmer climates, fill (not too full) and freeze overnight, when possible, so you have several hours of ice-cold water the next day. After storing for long periods I would advise filling with water and a drop of bleach, then flushing well several times with plain water to sterilise the pack.
   
   

...continue reading

Icon Variant? Meet tile floor...

Oh dear. Running back into my flat to retrieve my forgotten phone last Thursday evening, I put my beloved Icon Variant helmet on the countertop in my kitchen. A minute later, while grabbing it to leave, I experienced one of those slow motion, ‘nooooooooooooo’ moments as it slipped from my grasp and fell to the tile floor, making a sickening crack on impact.

Classic schoolboy error—never, ever, leave a helmet where it is at risk of dropping onto a hard surface.

No! Not a good place to leave a helmet!

I slowly picked it up, fearing the worst. Sure enough, the resin had cracked, much like a stone impact on a windscreen. It is universally recommended from safety groups to helmet manufacturers that impacts like this compromise the structure of a helmet and therefore pose a safety risk. Chances are, in reality, it would be okay, but I’m not the sort to take undue chances with my life. In 2/5ths of a second I was £270 poorer.

I love this helmet. It is the first one I’ve owned which lives up to its anti-fog claims. It’s the only full face helmet I’ve tried which doesn’t feel claustrophobic, providing nearly the same peripheral vision as an open face helmet. It’s also the first helmet I’ve owned which effectively clears rain, due to its bulbous visor which enables the airflow to push rain away from your field of vision. It is very quiet, and the peak on top generates just enough lift to counterbalance the weight of the helmet when travelling at speeds greater than 40mph, with no buffeting.

And just like that, a helmet is rendered unsafe

My motorcycle insurance is useless for this because there is no coverage unless the damage occurred in relation to the operation of the bike (ie a crash). I did a little digging on the details of my home insurance policy, and sure enough, it covers accidental damage.

I was somewhat hesitant to call because I have never had a home insurance claim since moving out of my parents’ home more than 20 years ago. I explained the situation to the very kindly woman on the phone who sourced a new replacement (like-for-like) during the call. For comparatively small claims like this they seem to simply reimburse (via a choice of cheque or direct transfer) which is fine with me. 

As a bonus, my policy has no excess and my no claims bonus is protected so I am not out of pocket. All those years of no claims are a good thing it seems. Note to self: more discretion in my choice of places to leave my helmet—even if only for a minute.

New helmet now on order, and lesson learned. 

Anyone else ever have a face-palm moment like this?

...continue reading

The gear and how it held up

Mechanical:

• BMW F800GS Trophy with OEM aluminium panniers and usual bits - new rear pads €66 at BMW Motorrad in Kaprun Austria (nearly ready for replacement at the start of the trip)
• Heidenau K60 Scouts - about 50% tread at the start, now about 20% tread
• various tools + tyre irons/spare tube - not used
• DRC mini foot pump - not used
• chain lube - used daily 1–2x

Electronics:

• GoPro Hero3 - no issues (but battery life is horrible)
• Nikon D7000 + 2 lenses, polarising filters and speedlight - no issues, excellent battery life (at 75% after 500 shots)
• SPOT Connect - absolutely rubbish, see below
• BMW Navigator IV GPS - no issues, but software really needs a 'navigate to route' function to join up on pre-programmed routes... currently the only option is to navigate to start of route so you are on your own to find your way to a point along the route
• Sena Bluetooth SMH-5 intercom - no issues, see below
• iPhone 5 - no issues, Booking Tonight app was immensely useful
• iPad 2 with camera connection kit and compact bluetooth keyboard - no issues, although not really needed along with laptop
• DIN to 3x USB adapter with device cables - no issues, only used once as devices charged each evening in hotels
• Sanyo Eneloop AA batteries + USB charger - not used (see below re SPOT Connect)
• MacBook Air (work laptop) - no issues

Misc:

• bike documentation/insurance - required, but not used
• passports - only used to re-enter UK
• St Christopher talisman - clearly it worked, we got back in one piece!
• European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) - required, but not used
• bank/credit cards + driving licence
• emergency map - not used
• personal hygiene items + ear plugs
• carrier bags - for dirty laundry, wet gloves etc
• small gifts for friends/family

Me:

• Icon Patrol waterproof jacket/trousers/gloves + Variant helmet and spare visor - see below
• TCX X-Desert waterproof boots - no issues, dry feet all the way!
• Caterpillar shatterproof safety sunglasses - no issues
• CamelBak 1.5l hydration pack - apart from a plastic taste to the water for the first few days, this was much more used than I thought it would be, wouldn't travel without it now
• spare non-waterproof gloves - no issues
• t-shirts/vests, shorts, cargos, trainers, underwear, socks

Zev:

• BMW Boulder 2 jacket with waterproof liner/City 2 trousers - no issues, whomever BMW commissions to make their gear does it well and it is up to the task
• Hein Gericke gloves - no issues
• Shark S500 helmet - no issues, although not a particularly quiet helmet
• Icon Patrol waterproof boots - no issues
• waterproof over-suit - cheap and nasty and performed as expected at its price point
• shirts/vests, shorts, jeans, shoes, underwear, socks

+++ Sena SMH-5 Bluetooth headset/intercom

This was the quiet star of the show—from hot to cold, and rain to snow these little units never stopped, never gave any problem at all. They are the least expensive units in Sena's range but well-featured and support multiple bluetooth connections, so GPS instructions, mobile phone, music player and intercom functions all work as expected. Battery life is fantastic, with the intercom open all day they last nearly 2 days on a charge, and charge via USB. This is an example of a device that does what it should do without any fuss. Are you listening, SPOT?

Photo: Sena SMH5 • Source: Sena Technologies

+++ Icon Patrol Raiden gear + Variant helmet

Couldn't be more pleased, it's not particularly expensive gear compared to some but it is well constructed, fits me perfectly and works as advertised. I've shelled out a bit extra to replace the stock, unremarkable pads with D3O versions (CE Level 2) but otherwise it is as shipped. I stayed completely dry through all sorts of rain, with one exception—a bit of dampness seeping through the undersides of the trousers after 2 hours of downpour including an hour on the French motorway. The Variant helmet shape is also great in rain as the airflow combined with the peak keeps the visor clear of rain, and in hot weather it is the best ventilated helmet I've had to date. A lot of people seem to have an aversion to brighter coloured gear but to be blunt I don't and whatever makes people see me means one less person to plough into me on the road. Too bright for you? They make their gear in black also. And the hood is great when you take off the helmet on a rainy day. Doesn't flap at speed either.

--- SPOT Connect

The biggest disappointment of the trip with respect to gear—YES I know it says on their website that they recommend using special Energizer Lithium batteries but what they don't say is that other batteries either don't work at all, or only last an hour or so. The special Energizers are virtually impossible to find anywhere in Europe. Top that off with constant Bluetooth connectivity issues (phone and device stop talking) and a stupid app on the phone which needs to be in the foreground or the unit stops sending tracking points, and you have a product that would do better smashed at the bottom of a rocky Alpine chasm than come along on my next trip. Infuriatingly disappointing after wasting a shitload of cash on this plus another shitload of cash on the subscription fees. And the map sharing function on their website works like something from 1999. In 2013 devices should not be such a struggle—are you listening SPOT? Built-in battery, USB charging and up-to-date software should not be too much to ask for a 'premium' product.

Photo: SPOT Connect • Source: SPOT LLC

---

Alps 2013 quick links

Day 1: London to Lille Day 2: Lille to Hagondange Day 3: Slow road to Ammerschwihr Day 4: Ammerschwihr Day 5: Ammerschwihr to Thônes Day 6: Thônes to.... Thônes Day 7: Thônes to Ruèras Day 8: Ruèras to Flachau

Day 9: Flachau Day 10: Flachau to Wemding Day 11: Wemding to Urberach Day 12: Urberach to Antwerp Day 13: Antwerp to London The gear and how it held up The trip in hindsight

...continue reading

Icon Variant Construct helmet

Photo: Icon Variant Construct • Source: Icon

The time arrived to replace my ageing Arai Condor helmet, which served me well for the past 4 years. It was a reasonably quiet helmet with good aerodynamics at higher speeds, although I had fogging issues in wet and/or cold days.

I tried everything from Autoglym anti-fog visor cleaner to various furniture polishes to carnauba wax-based car polish and nothing helped for more than 30 minutes. Neither did combinations of opening and closing vents. The only solution was to keep the visor cracked a millimetre but this resulted in raindrops ending up on the inside of the visor.

On a ride from Fryslân to London last June—nearly 8 hours in a constant downpour—this proved tiresome and stressful.

I spent time debating what to replace it with. Flip-fronts (convenient for a quick drink at rest stops or paying at petrol stations) were a consideration but I really wanted something with peak to stop myself being blinded during the cooler months when the sun sits low.

I had my eye on the Fox Racing Helmet V1 at a more-than-reasonable £100—however, being a motocross helmet, it requires separate goggles which are too much of a faff for day-to-day, me being the forgetful Freddy I am.

I also had a look at the decidedly smart BMW Enduro Helmet—a particularly versatile dual-sport/crossover helmet with removable visor and peak. You do pay for it though—£330–350 (depending on colour) for the standard version and an eye-watering £875 for the carbon fibre version.

The similarly versatile Arai Tour-X 4 helmet comes in at an even loftier £500 (for comparison, there seems to be no carbon version) and is loaded with features but, like the BMW helmet, seems to carry the brand premium in the price tag. [Off topic note: Some may note that I splurged for the BMW Rallye 3 jacket but the pricing of this was in line with other premium jackets and I believe it has been worth every penny.]

Photo: Icon Variant Construct
with Sena SMH5 headset

I recently rediscovered Icon, a Portland Oregon-based company that makes motorbike gear, including a range of dual sport products. Many of their products seem to take influence from the snowboarding industry, known for straightforward and practical design—jackets with hoods, trousers with extra pockets, relaxed fit etc—and an industry close to my heart, having snowboarded since 1992.

Icon have recently entered the world of dual sport riding with a pair of fantastic Triumph Tiger 800XCs—I've absolutely fallen in love with their brand new Patrol Raiden range and fairly new Variant helmet range, introduced (from what I can find via Google) in 2010.

Reading up on the details/features, the Variant helmet was exactly what I was looking for, and has the option of a 'breathbox' which redirects exhalations from the nose/mouth out the bottom of the helmet (one could argue that this should be included in the box—such is the world of commercialisation). All for a somewhat reasonable £220-280 (depending on colour) for the standard version, and an admittedly very reasonable £390 for the carbon fibre version.

I had my eye on the Variant Battlescar, a naked version with hand-dyed/washed fibres at £280, but decided on the less flashy Variant Construct (also pictured above), naked without the added colour at £250.

Icon only have 3 official dealers in the UK, Gorgeous Bikes in London that specialises in their 'fashion gear' and therefore don't carry Variant helmets, Topgear Superstore in Bexhill On Sea and Ultimate Bike Gear in Papworth Everard (closest at around 60 miles north of London).

Photo: Detail of helmet surface

I took a leap of faith that Ultimate Bike Gear would be open the Sunday before Christmas and left London at 10am with ominous clouds looming overhead, optimistic in the Met Office's claim of a 20% chance of rain. Yes, I could have rang ahead but I didn't feel like waiting until 11am when they opened.

Traffic was typically light as expected on a Sunday morning and I made good time cutting through the city and arriving at the shop in about 90 minutes—keeping in mind, of course, that the average speed in London on a motorbike, even on a quiet Sunday morning, is 19mph (compared to about 7mph for a car). The A1(M) motorway had fairly strong crosswinds as usual.

Ultimate Bike Gear was indeed open, and I had a chance to try on the Variant Construct—it fit my head/face/nose as well as I could have hoped, and actually felt much less claustrophobic than my Arai. The field of vision is the best I've experienced in a full-face helmet with nearly the same peripheral vision as an open-face helmet.

I was helped by Mike who kindly moved over my Sena Bluetooth headset/intercom to the Variant, and even supplied the mounting bits at no cost. Incidentally, the standard clamp mount for the headset doesn't work with the Variant—due to the way the padding and shell come together, there isn't enough of a gap to wedge the clamp in between.

Photo: Icon Variant Construct worn—
plenty of room for my big nose
and excellent peripheral vision

Ultimate Bike Gear was a good experience—within 2 minutes of arriving I had a fresh coffee in hand and the use of a supremely clean toilet (it's all about the everyday things!), plus the aforementioned good service. I prefer to support small, independent businesses where possible because of these little things.

Of course I wore the helmet home. First impressions? It's about as quiet, and about the same weight as the Arai. As noted above, the field of vision is superior. Even tight and brand new it was comfortable without any undue pressure points. The ventilation is the best I've experienced in any helmet—including the open-face helmet I use around town.

The most notable difference is at motorway speeds (60–70mph)—it does catch the wind much more than the aerodynamically efficient Arai. It's not a problem as such, simply a characteristic of peaked helmets which might put off people who are not expecting this. The helmet is light enough that I don't find it a problem.

The helmet came with a second dark tinted visor (illegal in the UK but tolerated on the continent), a ubiquitous 'free advertising' sticker, a little spray bottle to fill with visor cleaner of your choice, obligatory microfibre visor cleaning cloth, a reasonably well-made carrying bag, a key for changing the visor (although a flathead screwdriver also works), a poster and an accessories list.

All in all, I'm really pleased with it so far (based on a 90-minute ride). We'll see how it fares in the longterm after a couple holidays... and the next time I'm stuck in a downpour for 8 hours.

...continue reading