Showing posts with label Luxembourg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Luxembourg. Show all posts

1 Jul 2014

Europe 2014: Day 12 - Eschdorf to London


Today was a day of motorways and covering ground as efficiently as possible—so unfortunately no photographs.

We went for breakfast around 9am and had a chat with the hotel owner who advised us to take it easy when we left as there had been three accidents—two of them fatal—in the past week in the area. A cyclist hit a tree but was not badly injured, another cyclist went off the road into a ravine and a motorcyclist collided with a truck on a bend. Not really what you want to hear before undertaking a 560km journey but good advice nevertheless.

The minor roads in Luxembourg are very narrow with some extremely tight corners and it’s easy to become complacent due to the low volume of traffic. It is absolutely essential to keep to the kerb side when following through the bends so the leaning bike doesn’t place your head into the oncoming lane.

At this time of year there are a lot of ‘sunny weather’ bikers out who are drawn to the beautiful roads in the area but who have limited experience—unfortunately this is a recipe for disaster. I ride year round in all weather on a daily basis and found some of the roads highly technical, so I can’t imagine riding quickly on these roads if it was my first ride since the previous summer. Despite the blanket 90kph speed limit, most of the corners can only be taken safely at speeds between 40 and 60kph.

We entered Belgium only 30 minutes after leaving (Luxembourg is only an hour from top to bottom) and slabbed it to Calais with a stop in Dunkerque to buy some food to eat on the train. The motorways may be boring but they are efficient when covering ground is a priority.

At the Eurotunnel terminal it cost €7 to change my ticket from Friday to today which was the difference between the two fares. Eurotunnel do run a good service, the ticketing is very accommodating. I naughtily went straight through instead of waiting for my slot and again was let onto the next available train saving an hour of waiting—every time I’ve crossed this has happened, I think once the cars are loaded they fill up any remaining space with any motorbikes that are waiting.

I’m aware that I should know better but we both got on the bike just before the train stopped on the UK side—the jostling is very disorienting (the road shouldn’t move!) and I almost had us over, avoiding a fall by the skin of my teeth... lesson learned.

The motorway back to London had fairly light traffic but the city was congested—the last eight miles are an insult on every trip, having to deal with London congestion when tired and so close to home.

Parked safe and sound at home, I was greeted by cheek covered in fur...

Milo’s favourite space for an afternoon snooze—squeezed into the sink.
I don’t doubt for a minute that a cat wouldn’t hesitate to eat your face if you died in your sleep, but alive and breathing, I also don’t doubt that they miss their servants immensely when you go away. He has been following me around all evening like a lost puppy.

I have laundry to do and I’m looking forward to a good night’s sleep in my own bed. Tomorrow will be all about sorting out my insurance claim and dropping off the bike with BMW to sort.

I will do a wrap up tomorrow (brain melting now) but a few fun facts for now:

  • Average consumption: 5.5 l/100km or 51mpg (brilliant for a fully loaded 1200cc bike)
  • Highest speed: 187kph/116mph (German autobahn)
  • Overall average speed: 42kph/26mph (including time stopped, for example traffic lights)
  • Moving average speed: 58kph/36mph
  • Distance covered: 3,500km/2,200mi

Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

Europe 2014: Day 11 - Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf


It was very sad to say goodbye to Laure but after two relaxing days in the Alsace it was time to make our way towards London.

After breakfast we packed our things and left around 11am towards Luxembourg. The weather was a bit patchy which was slightly concerning as our gear is no long waterproof now that it is riddled with holes. However, the worst we had was about 10 minutes of light rain.

The roads through the Vosges are perfect for motorbiking, one curve after another, up and down hills and through beautiful forests. At one point we hit the clouds and the temperature dropped to 11°C but as we descended it rose again to a perfect 23°C.

With all the dirt roads coming off the main highway, it was too tempting not to explore a few of them—almost all of them seemed to lead to logging areas, a bit of a shame to cut down such beautiful forests.

After we came out of the Vosges the scenery changed to fields.

Zev was a hit with the ladies.

Nice to be off the tarmac for a little while.

More fields—the kind you want to run through with your hands in the air like you just don’t care.

Zev here. I will not be running through the fields today.

I contemplated what it would be like to ride over the stack of logs but decided against it.

Apart from the droopy left handlebar, the R1200GS looks almost in one piece still...

Not long before it’s good as new again.

Zev again. Bored of posing for photos.

Nothing like smiling in front of a pile of logs.

After missing our turn the GPS rerouted us on this amazing single track road.

The bike waiting patiently while Zev explores the plant life.

Dried up brook winding its way through the forest.
We finally entered Luxembourg at 6pm and stopped in a small town to find a place to stop for the day. About 15 minutes away was Hôtel-Restaurant Braas Sàrl in Eschdorf which had reasonably priced rooms still available. Unfortunately the road was closed due to works so we had to go the long way round and progress was slow as I was feeling tired.

We arrived at about 7pm and checked in before making our way to the hotel restaurant for dinner. I’ve not seen 70s-vibe style like this hotel in a long, long time—even the lift doors were painted 70s tan with actual pushbuttons for the floor... amazing!

Zev contemplates life as he waits for his dinner.

The hotel lounge—super-70s style!

At night this little village in the middle of the Ardennes is so quiet you could hear a cat walking across the road—not a sound anywhere, almost eerie.

Great day today, but I’m feeling it now and it’s definitely time for a good night’s sleep.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

9 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Route


In 11 days I’ll be handing over the keys for my flat to my cousin as I embark on a 5,000 km/3,000 mile pan-European adventure over 15 days, which will also mark my first proper journey on my R1200GS.

The preliminary route is as follows, starting and ending in London:

  • Sneek, Netherlands
  • Berlin, Germany
  • Prague, Czech Republic
  • Wemding, Germany
  • Flachau, Austria
  • Vellano, Italy
  • Tende, France
  • Stelvio, Italy
  • Ammerschwihr, France
  • Luxembourg
  • Aachen, Germany
  • London, UK
I will be accompanied again this year by Zev who has the dubious pleasure of riding pillion. As journeys like these generally take on an organic quality once under way, the route may change as we go.

More soon, including a slightly more refined packing list compared to last year (ie less stuff)!


24 Jun 2013

Day 2: Lille to Hagondange


Needless to say, it was somewhat easier to bring the panniers down the 3 flights and we set off around 10am the next morning, with a couple beautiful baguette sandwiches courtesy of Tom. I discovered a truly annoying quirk of my GPS when using preprogrammed routes. It likes to navigate you to the start of the route—in this case the geographical centre point of Lille—unless you can find a road along the programmed route. At home this is easy, but in foreign territory somewhat less so, and we ended up doing a needless loop through central Lille in Monday morning traffic.

45 minutes later we were heading out of Lille and then into Belgium. The rumours are true, they may as well not bother with a sign when you cross the open border, as the roads go from French perfection to war-torn as though someone flipped a switch.

I'm not sure if everyone in Belgium is currently on their holidays but many of the villages and towns we went through looked almost boarded up, with no people walking along and very few cars parked beside the roads.

Stopped to stimulate blood-flow through numb bottoms.

This stretch of road had the only signs of life in the village, with a couple shops open but everywhere else looked abandonned.

No people to be seen.

We stopped to fill up in Beaumont where we spoke with our first Belgians—the woman and (presumably) her daughter at the petrol station. All my initial perceptions changed, they were so welcoming and friendly, and curious about our trip. I spent about 10 minutes chatting with them—I find it heartwarming to meet people who have a genuine interest curiosity about things outside their everyday circles.

Something that stuck me as slightly curious was that they thanked me for speaking French to them... I would never think to thank someone for speaking English to me in the UK. I always try to learn at least enough of a local language to get by, I think it's callous to expect people in other countries to accommodate me in my own language.

A young sheep having a lie-down over the road from the petrol station in Beaumont.

We carried on through a mix of fast roads and slow (but all riddled with holes) as the GPS threaded us toward Luxembourg. On one downhill stretch a police BMW X5 flew past, lights blazing, and a few minutes later we came across an accident where it seems a car smashed straight into a barrier. The front end had been evenly compressed up to the passenger compartment. Hopefully the occupants were ok but it was still a sobering sight knowing they undoubtedly didn't intend for their day to end up like that.

Zev started making noises about food so we diverted up a narrow country in search of a village restaurant for some of Belgium's specialty—frites. After wandering around several villages and a track through a field we came across a restaurant which, like much of the rest of the country, was closed up tight. We stayed in the gravel car park and finished our baguette sandwiches.

Temperature dropped so time to get out a few extra layers.

Back on the main road we carried on slaloming around the holes and before long we were at the open border to Luxembourg.

I should reflect on the journey through Belgium. It is a beautiful country with some of the warmest and friendly people I've come across. The scenery is amazing and we both enjoyed our (short) time there. Still not sure why so many villages seemed almost uninhabited, but summer is the time when people go on holidays en-mass so perhaps someone could comment on this?

Still in good spirits and in one piece.

Luxembourg is one of the richest countries in the world as they have no national deficit. And it shows. The roads are instantly smooth as glass and seem to be engineered to be as enjoyable as possible for bikes and cars alike with endless and perfectly banked curves threading along the hills.

Every village looked like a movie set, immaculately presented without a single chocolate bar wrapper or cigarette butt to be seen. Every building seemed to be coated in a fresh lick of paint and everything seemed to coordinate together from the buildings to the gardens. Coming from London it was practically a culture shock.

Somewhere in rural Luxembourg resting the bottoms.

It only took about 2 hours to cross the country from top to bottom but Luxembourg has earned a spot on my 'must visit again' list.

I've barely mentioned two words about the bike and this is high praise indeed. It carried on with its duties, fully loaded, without so much as a burp. The F800GS is no muscle bike but even loaded up to its limit you never lack power in any way. So far on this trip I have averaged 60mpg on the dot according to the onboard computer—certainly nothing to complain about.

If I had to whinge about something, it would be the seat. The comfort seat is a million years ahead of the standard plank, which is stricter than a German head teacher administering a rap on the knuckles with a ruler, but I still find myself needing to disembark at least once every two hours.

The SPOT Connect is a different matter, however I seem to have learned its quirks now. If I did it again, I would have bought the standard version without Bluetooth connectivity. Unless the app is running in the foreground on the smartphone, the SPOT seems to stop tracking. As a result there are several gaps in the map. Also, the unit requires you to press the power button once every two hours to maintain the tracking function. Annoying.

I filled up with petrol in Luxembourg (city) where fuel is around 30–40 cents cheaper per litre, another sign of a country without a national deficit. The people were friendly, but perhaps not quite as warm as the Belgians.

We were back in France without even knowing it, as I didn't see the open border sign. Still 250km from Ammerschwihr, we were feeling tired and decided to find a hotel. One of the most useful apps on my phone for travelling has to be 'Booking Tonight' from booking.com. Hotels with vacancies will publish reduced rates in an effort to fill their last available rooms, often at discounts up to 75%. I found a hotel for €33 8km away in Hagondange so we headed straight over.

The hotel was not what you would call luxurious, but it did the job and the patronne was a lovely older French lady so I was sold. It had semi-secured parking for the bike and a pizza place was round the corner so we bought a couple take-away pizzas to bring back to the hotel. Despite internet access I was too tired to write so passed out until the next morning.

Always prefer to have the bike in sight from my room.

A wider view of the semi-secured car park.

And in HDR for the surrealists.


Alps 2013 quick links


Day 1: London to Lille
Day 2: Lille to Hagondange
Day 3: Slow road to Ammerschwihr
Day 4: Ammerschwihr
Day 5: Ammerschwihr to Thônes
Day 6: Thônes to.... Thônes
Day 7: Thônes to Ruèras
Day 8: Ruèras to Flachau
Day 9: Flachau
Day 10: Flachau to Wemding
Day 11: Wemding to Urberach
Day 12: Urberach to Antwerp
Day 13: Antwerp to London

The gear and how it held up
The trip in hindsight