Showing posts with label Belgium. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Belgium. Show all posts

1 Jul 2014

Europe 2014: Day 12 - Eschdorf to London


Today was a day of motorways and covering ground as efficiently as possible—so unfortunately no photographs.

We went for breakfast around 9am and had a chat with the hotel owner who advised us to take it easy when we left as there had been three accidents—two of them fatal—in the past week in the area. A cyclist hit a tree but was not badly injured, another cyclist went off the road into a ravine and a motorcyclist collided with a truck on a bend. Not really what you want to hear before undertaking a 560km journey but good advice nevertheless.

The minor roads in Luxembourg are very narrow with some extremely tight corners and it’s easy to become complacent due to the low volume of traffic. It is absolutely essential to keep to the kerb side when following through the bends so the leaning bike doesn’t place your head into the oncoming lane.

At this time of year there are a lot of ‘sunny weather’ bikers out who are drawn to the beautiful roads in the area but who have limited experience—unfortunately this is a recipe for disaster. I ride year round in all weather on a daily basis and found some of the roads highly technical, so I can’t imagine riding quickly on these roads if it was my first ride since the previous summer. Despite the blanket 90kph speed limit, most of the corners can only be taken safely at speeds between 40 and 60kph.

We entered Belgium only 30 minutes after leaving (Luxembourg is only an hour from top to bottom) and slabbed it to Calais with a stop in Dunkerque to buy some food to eat on the train. The motorways may be boring but they are efficient when covering ground is a priority.

At the Eurotunnel terminal it cost €7 to change my ticket from Friday to today which was the difference between the two fares. Eurotunnel do run a good service, the ticketing is very accommodating. I naughtily went straight through instead of waiting for my slot and again was let onto the next available train saving an hour of waiting—every time I’ve crossed this has happened, I think once the cars are loaded they fill up any remaining space with any motorbikes that are waiting.

I’m aware that I should know better but we both got on the bike just before the train stopped on the UK side—the jostling is very disorienting (the road shouldn’t move!) and I almost had us over, avoiding a fall by the skin of my teeth... lesson learned.

The motorway back to London had fairly light traffic but the city was congested—the last eight miles are an insult on every trip, having to deal with London congestion when tired and so close to home.

Parked safe and sound at home, I was greeted by cheek covered in fur...

Milo’s favourite space for an afternoon snooze—squeezed into the sink.
I don’t doubt for a minute that a cat wouldn’t hesitate to eat your face if you died in your sleep, but alive and breathing, I also don’t doubt that they miss their servants immensely when you go away. He has been following me around all evening like a lost puppy.

I have laundry to do and I’m looking forward to a good night’s sleep in my own bed. Tomorrow will be all about sorting out my insurance claim and dropping off the bike with BMW to sort.

I will do a wrap up tomorrow (brain melting now) but a few fun facts for now:

  • Average consumption: 5.5 l/100km or 51mpg (brilliant for a fully loaded 1200cc bike)
  • Highest speed: 187kph/116mph (German autobahn)
  • Overall average speed: 42kph/26mph (including time stopped, for example traffic lights)
  • Moving average speed: 58kph/36mph
  • Distance covered: 3,500km/2,200mi

Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

23 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 2 - Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg


After a huge buffet-style breakfast we left the Fruitoff Tack around 11am and headed toward Aachen for a quick stop at FC Moto so Zev could buy a new helmet.

Mrs and Mr Tack, owners of the beautiful Fruithof Tack.
Ready to point the GPS to Berlin.
Belgium is full of speed cameras—there is one at nearly every traffic light. At a cost of several thousand Euros each, I’m not surprised the country has financial difficulties! Even more annoying are the 70kph speed limits off the motorways—most EU countries have 90–100kph speed limits on these types of roads. Cruise control is a very good thing on a bike...

Around lunchtime we stopped for another high end dining experience in a Carrefour car park.

Shut up. I haven’t had my Carrefour chocolate covered waffle yet.
The most amazing disabled sign I’ve ever seen—so loungy, and with curious alien shaped head.
We arrived in Aachen just after 4pm and discovered that FC Moto closed at 4. So no new helmet for Zev. I’d assumed a shop like this would be open until at least 5 or 6pm on a Saturday so this was somewhat of a disappointment. I programmed Berlin into the GPS and we set off again.

However, the B-roads afterwards made up for this. I’ve mentioned on a previous trip how well-engineered German roads are, and with 100kph limits you can cover ground effectively. The roads wind through fields, forests and little towns, all with quite spectacular scenery and very little traffic. It was almost like we had the countryside to ourselves.

We stopped for a quick rest at a park.

Zev here with a smile. These foxgloves would make a lovely spot
of tea—if you wanted to bump someone off, that is.
More than just a fern. It’s a German fern.
I’m no sculptor or art critic but bloody hell what a ghastly work this is...
Afterwards I hit the autobahn for an hour to make up a few miles. With the panniers and top box fitted BMW recommend a top speed of 180kph/110mph which is understandable considering they are as aerodynamic as bricks and can therefore potentially induce oscillations in the chassis (weaving) at very high speeds. For the record, at this speed the R1200GS gets 35mpg according to the computer—therefore you can empty a tank in less than 2 hours! And the engine howls (around 6,500rpm) with the exhaust flap wide open. Some of the sections of the clip are sped up 8x and apologies in advance for the crap audio.


One autobahn moment made me laugh—there were two people on a 4-cylinder Japanese adventure-style bike who were riding around 160kph/100mph when we passed by. About 10 minutes later, I heard what sounded like mosquito trapped in a hairdryer and they passed us again at around 12,000rpm. To the rider—if you read this, sorry you felt you had something to prove :)

We excused ourselves from the autobahn and headed back into the countryside, stopping to refuel in a little village which was decorated with bunting over the road. Almost immediately after we rode through, they closed the road and a marching band appeared out of nowhere. We’d inadvertently taken part in this town’s festival.

Zev here. I’m avoiding eye contact with Grandma and her
hot wheels behind me... I don’t know what her game is...
While refuelling we were serenaded by a marching band. Reason 117 to love Germany.
Continuing on we came across vast fields of bearded grass. I suspect this is grown to feed livestock during the winter months—but whatever the reason, the colours seemed to be part of an augmented reality.

And reason 118 would be the golden fields.
No. You’re wrong. This is not an HDR photo—these colours are real.
The great divide between young and old.
Yes, the temptation to ride the motorbike through one of these fields was almost overwhelming, but the idea of spending the rest of my holiday in a German prison put a damper on it.

Around 8pm we started to get tired and hungry. As we descended a hill we saw a glowing ‘m’ poking through the treetops so we gave in to all sense and shamefully stopped for Happy Meals. Bellies full of questionable content, I found a potential hotel nearby.

We arrived and the hotel was locked up tight—in fact the whole town of Bad Driburg was devoid of people and traffic, very strange for a Saturday night during the World Cup! After a few minutes a woman opened the door and said they were closed, but that she would call another hotel nearby.

Success! We had a nice room in an extraordinarily 70s-kitsch hotel on the top of a hill—the Waldcafé Jäger. They let me park the bike in their beer cellar, possibly the most unique parking space to date. Sadly, however, their WiFi was broken—I like to get an idea of where I’ll be travelling the next day as I wind down for bed. But such is life.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

21 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 1 - London to Sint-Gillis-Waas


So much for an early start—by the time we were fed, watered and my cousin Carol given a crash course in my cat’s dietary regime, plus a last minute update for something at work, we set off at 11am with no hope of making our scheduled 11:48am Eurotunnel crossing.

It was my hope to fit everything in the panniers without expanding them (makes filtering through traffic easier with a narrower backside) but I finally gave in. Regardless, I think it was an accomplishment to fit 15 days’ gear for two people completely in three panniers and a tankbag without having to sit on any of them to close them.

Traffic in London had died down from the morning rush and the M20 motorway was practically empty so we made good time, the journey taking around an hour and a half.

The woman in the Eurotunnel check-in booth was oh-so-Folkestone as she scolded us like naughty school boys about being 45 minutes late and handed over the boarding card for the next available train, insisting that Zev promise he wouldn’t drop it as we rode off. Eurotunnel provide a great service as they will honour bookings ±2 hours from the scheduled time, presumably to prevent people from driving dangerously to make their slot—however this can involve a wait if it’s a particularly busy day.

No shame in a clean GS—waiting in terminal hell for our new slot
After 25 minutes I got tired of waiting under the beating sun at the terminal, and despite having an ’N’ crossing slot, tried my luck while they were calling the ‘K’ slot. My luck paid off as they didn’t even check, and just waved me through toward border control.

The first booth is to check out of the UK, and the second is to check into France. Of course these are both EU areas so they are only interested in people trying to transport restricted items (including pets which require a pet passport to re-enter the UK). It is unusual for motorbikes to be stopped due to their minimal cargo capacity. In fact, French border control wasn’t interested in seeing passports and didn’t even ask either of us to remove our helmets.

We ended up getting on the ‘K’ train along with about 10 other bikers, all with UK registrations, distributed between two carriages. A few Triumph Explorers, a Daytona, at least three R1200RTs, two F800GSs and a blue Yamaha XT660Z Ténéré (like this bike a lot!) among others. Mine was the only R1200GS which is slightly surprising as this is the top selling bike over 600cc in the UK.

Hello. I’m Zev. I’m hot and bothered because I kept my helmet on the whole time we were queued
in the beating sun before boarding the train. Now it’s all wet inside. So shut up and let me read.
The RT behind my bike in the photo above belongs to a Scotsman who’d just toured England. He’s now off to the Black Forest. He commended Zev’s bravery for agreeing to ride pillion for 3,000 miles.

The Eurotunnel trains are so smooth, no tie downs are required—bikes must be on the side stand, in 1st gear angled toward the kerb in the carriage. Couldn’t be easier.

Hello. Zev again. Not only are you still disturbing my reading, but now you’re interfering
with my yoga moves. I hate you and I’m going to shove that camera down your throat.
All said and done, and jumping an hour ahead from GMT to CET we came out the other side about 3pm. Out the other side and up to speed, we were feeling somewhat more refreshed and in better spirits. As soon as we crossed over the border into Belgium (about 25 minutes ride) I exited the motorway and reprogrammed the GPS to route on the backroads.

I’ll pause for a moment to mention that we are already altering the original route plan—skipping the visit to my family in Sneek as they are away. So I’ve pointed the GPS to Aachen (originally planned for the end of the trip) for a stop at FC-Moto so Zev can buy a new helmet to replace his ageing (and very noisy) Shark S500.

We reached Brugge around 5pm and it was overwhelmed by mainly English-speaking tourists (UK and American/Canadian)—as in, we could barely get through the streets. I finally made my way to my favourite little Egyptian restaurant opposite the Frietmuseum and was disappointed to read a note on the door that the owner was on holidays until next week. The other restaurants and cafés nearby had menus starting from €25, a bit steep for a light supper, and clearly cashing in on the tourists.

We figured this was our cue to leave Brugge with empty bellies and find a supermarket along the way. I adore Brugge, but visits are best left for the off season—February/March and October/November when the streets are quiet and the restaurants return to ‘local’ pricing.

Belgium’s roads have improved substantially since even last year with barely a pothole in sight, and the backroads cut through some beautiful scenery—tree lined stretches, red poppies everywhere and fields of onions and corn. Because of the proximity to the North Sea, northern Belgium can be extremely gusty, and there are sections of planted forests which act as windbreakers. These are found around northern France as well.

We came across Buurtwinkels OKay supermarket in Assenede and chose a few bits and pieces for an on-the-go dinner. I love that AriZona tea drinks—my sugar rush of choice—are offered everywhere in Belgium as they are near impossible to find in the UK. However, I discovered that supermarkets in Belgium don’t take debit/credit cards (they only accept cash or a special local credit card for this purpose from what I understood) and I hadn’t stopped at an ATM to withdraw cash. The cashier was kind enough to hang on to our groceries while we rode a few kilometres to the nearest cash point.

After our classy car park dinner party we carried on in the general direction of Aachen. By 8:30pm I was feeling more and more distracted so it was time to fire up the booking.com app to find someplace suitable to settle down for the evening.

And what a place we found—the Fruithof Tack in Sint-Gillis-Waas, not far from Antwerp. As the name implies, it is a B&B located next to apple and pear orchards. The whole place, from top to bottom, is absolutely gorgeous and the owners welcomed us into their home with local lagers and an hour of warm and friendly conversation. They opened up their fruit processing area so the bike would be secure and even insisted on carrying up the luggage. Couldn’t have asked for more—highly recommended.

After a day where things were just a bit more difficult than they should have been (and not enough photos were taken), being able to type this post from one of the most comfortable beds I’ve experienced in a long time was the perfect way to wind down.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

4 Jul 2013

Day 12: Urberach to Antwerp


The Urberacher Hof was another highlight of the trip—Gisela and her mother Margarete were fantastic hosts. We were treated to a full classic German breakfast and then personally seen off when we left. Definitely worth a stay.

Milka muffins for breakfast.

A bit of memorabilia from a Canadian icon—in central Germany!

The weather was threatening to rain but fortunately never followed through and before long the clouds parted. I said it before, but Germany is made for motorbiking, the roads are excellent and the speed limits are realistic enough that you can have fun without risking your licence.

A mum-n-pops petrol station.

Splashy.

We soon headed off the main road onto a twisty, narrow route through the forested hills.

During the climb, a beautiful cathedral appeared.

We stopped in a tiny farming village for a quick rest. Maybe being used to dirty old London our standards are low but Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria and Germany were shockingly clean everywhere, no rubbish to be seen.

Old tudor style farmhouses, some in better condition than others.

Around 5pm we reached Würselen (near Aachen), the unassuming home of FC Moto—known for its excellent European mail order service selling all sorts of motorbiking gear. Indeed there was an overwhelming selection of everything from helmets to full body rigs.

Out front of FC Moto.

We slabbed it from Aachen across the bottom of the Netherlands, stopping briefly in Heerlen for chocolate sprinkles (a Dutch/Belgian thing) and on towards Antwerp.

We met up with our friend Dirkyan at a motorway exit just before Antwerp and followed him through some beautiful Belgian villages to his home where we met his wife and were treated to a delicious home cooked meal and local specialty beer. We stayed until late talking about our travels and life in general. It was a real pleasure and a great way to spend the evening—thank you Rango for inviting us to your home!

We rode the short distance to Antwerp where we stayed in our first chain hotel of the trip—the Scandic Hotel Antwerpen. Although the room had the personality of a wardrobe, the price was right and the night manager was kind enough to let me park underneath the hotel for security in the staff area. Even the chain hotels can be accommodating when you travel by bike.

Still not over my cold I didn't even unpack the panniers, it was straight to bed for the night.


Alps 2013 quick links


Day 1: London to Lille
Day 2: Lille to Hagondange
Day 3: Slow road to Ammerschwihr
Day 4: Ammerschwihr
Day 5: Ammerschwihr to Thônes
Day 6: Thônes to.... Thônes
Day 7: Thônes to Ruèras
Day 8: Ruèras to Flachau
Day 9: Flachau
Day 10: Flachau to Wemding
Day 11: Wemding to Urberach
Day 12: Urberach to Antwerp
Day 13: Antwerp to London

The gear and how it held up
The trip in hindsight

24 Jun 2013

Day 2: Lille to Hagondange


Needless to say, it was somewhat easier to bring the panniers down the 3 flights and we set off around 10am the next morning, with a couple beautiful baguette sandwiches courtesy of Tom. I discovered a truly annoying quirk of my GPS when using preprogrammed routes. It likes to navigate you to the start of the route—in this case the geographical centre point of Lille—unless you can find a road along the programmed route. At home this is easy, but in foreign territory somewhat less so, and we ended up doing a needless loop through central Lille in Monday morning traffic.

45 minutes later we were heading out of Lille and then into Belgium. The rumours are true, they may as well not bother with a sign when you cross the open border, as the roads go from French perfection to war-torn as though someone flipped a switch.

I'm not sure if everyone in Belgium is currently on their holidays but many of the villages and towns we went through looked almost boarded up, with no people walking along and very few cars parked beside the roads.

Stopped to stimulate blood-flow through numb bottoms.

This stretch of road had the only signs of life in the village, with a couple shops open but everywhere else looked abandonned.

No people to be seen.

We stopped to fill up in Beaumont where we spoke with our first Belgians—the woman and (presumably) her daughter at the petrol station. All my initial perceptions changed, they were so welcoming and friendly, and curious about our trip. I spent about 10 minutes chatting with them—I find it heartwarming to meet people who have a genuine interest curiosity about things outside their everyday circles.

Something that stuck me as slightly curious was that they thanked me for speaking French to them... I would never think to thank someone for speaking English to me in the UK. I always try to learn at least enough of a local language to get by, I think it's callous to expect people in other countries to accommodate me in my own language.

A young sheep having a lie-down over the road from the petrol station in Beaumont.

We carried on through a mix of fast roads and slow (but all riddled with holes) as the GPS threaded us toward Luxembourg. On one downhill stretch a police BMW X5 flew past, lights blazing, and a few minutes later we came across an accident where it seems a car smashed straight into a barrier. The front end had been evenly compressed up to the passenger compartment. Hopefully the occupants were ok but it was still a sobering sight knowing they undoubtedly didn't intend for their day to end up like that.

Zev started making noises about food so we diverted up a narrow country in search of a village restaurant for some of Belgium's specialty—frites. After wandering around several villages and a track through a field we came across a restaurant which, like much of the rest of the country, was closed up tight. We stayed in the gravel car park and finished our baguette sandwiches.

Temperature dropped so time to get out a few extra layers.

Back on the main road we carried on slaloming around the holes and before long we were at the open border to Luxembourg.

I should reflect on the journey through Belgium. It is a beautiful country with some of the warmest and friendly people I've come across. The scenery is amazing and we both enjoyed our (short) time there. Still not sure why so many villages seemed almost uninhabited, but summer is the time when people go on holidays en-mass so perhaps someone could comment on this?

Still in good spirits and in one piece.

Luxembourg is one of the richest countries in the world as they have no national deficit. And it shows. The roads are instantly smooth as glass and seem to be engineered to be as enjoyable as possible for bikes and cars alike with endless and perfectly banked curves threading along the hills.

Every village looked like a movie set, immaculately presented without a single chocolate bar wrapper or cigarette butt to be seen. Every building seemed to be coated in a fresh lick of paint and everything seemed to coordinate together from the buildings to the gardens. Coming from London it was practically a culture shock.

Somewhere in rural Luxembourg resting the bottoms.

It only took about 2 hours to cross the country from top to bottom but Luxembourg has earned a spot on my 'must visit again' list.

I've barely mentioned two words about the bike and this is high praise indeed. It carried on with its duties, fully loaded, without so much as a burp. The F800GS is no muscle bike but even loaded up to its limit you never lack power in any way. So far on this trip I have averaged 60mpg on the dot according to the onboard computer—certainly nothing to complain about.

If I had to whinge about something, it would be the seat. The comfort seat is a million years ahead of the standard plank, which is stricter than a German head teacher administering a rap on the knuckles with a ruler, but I still find myself needing to disembark at least once every two hours.

The SPOT Connect is a different matter, however I seem to have learned its quirks now. If I did it again, I would have bought the standard version without Bluetooth connectivity. Unless the app is running in the foreground on the smartphone, the SPOT seems to stop tracking. As a result there are several gaps in the map. Also, the unit requires you to press the power button once every two hours to maintain the tracking function. Annoying.

I filled up with petrol in Luxembourg (city) where fuel is around 30–40 cents cheaper per litre, another sign of a country without a national deficit. The people were friendly, but perhaps not quite as warm as the Belgians.

We were back in France without even knowing it, as I didn't see the open border sign. Still 250km from Ammerschwihr, we were feeling tired and decided to find a hotel. One of the most useful apps on my phone for travelling has to be 'Booking Tonight' from booking.com. Hotels with vacancies will publish reduced rates in an effort to fill their last available rooms, often at discounts up to 75%. I found a hotel for €33 8km away in Hagondange so we headed straight over.

The hotel was not what you would call luxurious, but it did the job and the patronne was a lovely older French lady so I was sold. It had semi-secured parking for the bike and a pizza place was round the corner so we bought a couple take-away pizzas to bring back to the hotel. Despite internet access I was too tired to write so passed out until the next morning.

Always prefer to have the bike in sight from my room.

A wider view of the semi-secured car park.

And in HDR for the surrealists.


Alps 2013 quick links


Day 1: London to Lille
Day 2: Lille to Hagondange
Day 3: Slow road to Ammerschwihr
Day 4: Ammerschwihr
Day 5: Ammerschwihr to Thônes
Day 6: Thônes to.... Thônes
Day 7: Thônes to Ruèras
Day 8: Ruèras to Flachau
Day 9: Flachau
Day 10: Flachau to Wemding
Day 11: Wemding to Urberach
Day 12: Urberach to Antwerp
Day 13: Antwerp to London

The gear and how it held up
The trip in hindsight