Showing posts with label Europe 2014. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Europe 2014. Show all posts

3 Jul 2014

Europe 2014: Wrapping up


How to wrap up... well I’ll start with the negative bits of which there are only a few. The elephant in the room is of course the oil slick between the Czech villages of Leontýn and Karlov which caused the bike to spit us off at 70kph—you can read more here. Coincidentally this is by far the most read entry about this trip on my blog—you guys are bloodthirsty!!

A big negative was missing out visiting our friends in Austria—we were really looking forward to seeing them, but given the mishap, we felt it was best not to go even further from home before the bike could be repaired. Unfortunately this also meant I wasted €40 on vignettes for Austria and Switzerland but that’s not the end of the world.

Perhaps minor in the grand scheme of things, but it really pissed me off that the cleaners came into the room two mornings in a row at the hotel in Berlin at stupid o’clock (around 8am)—with the ‘do not disturb’ hanger on the door. Few things wind me up but I do like my privacy—why bother making these hangers?

Oh, and the rubbish timing of Berlin traffic lights—needlessly causing congestion—the worst I’ve come across in any city.

Finally, the BMW Navigator IV (aka Garmin 660) wound me up a few times because it is bloody slow when calculating routes avoiding the main roads/motorways—I mean have a coffee and a sandwich slow. What takes the GPS app in my iPhone three seconds to calculate was taking up to 10 minutes to calculate on the dedicated Navigator. The workaround is to avoid calculating routes to places further than a few hundred kilometres at a time. I understand the Navigator V is much quicker but I’m not spending £500 on another GPS when this one otherwise works great.

Now the positives. Firstly the technology bits—a special mention once again for the Sena SMH5 bluetooth headsets. The best technology is that which works invisibly in the background and Sena have really nailed it with this product. Never a problem and two days’ battery life out of a single charge. My camera, laptop and phone all happily buzzed along as well.

The bike was great, aforementioned incident notwithstanding. All loaded up we were fairly close to the weight limit but there was more than enough power to go as fast as you like. Even fully loaded the brakes are strong enough to lift the rear wheel and the clutch feather light. With the Gear Shift Assist Pro system, touring is effortless—despite a few random missed shifts where the system seemed to get confused—overall, well worth the extra cost.

It seems the days of boxers engines drinking oil are over, as it didn’t consume any. Average fuel consumption was a very acceptable 51mph—better than many 600cc bikes (my old Honda Hornet got around 45mph), and only 9mph less than my F800GS on a similar trip. For reference, the worst I saw on the computer was 13mpg on heavy throttle accelerating up a long, steep hill and the best was around 75mpg on cruise control at 50mph on level ground.

There is a minor quirk of the fuelling system on this bike—modern engines cut the fuel flow while decelerating (to reduce pollution and improve fuel consumption) and this ‘feature’ made itself known at times while maintaining a low speed (30mph) while travelling on a slight decline, resulting in some roughness.

All in all, the new R1200GS is a reliable, well engineered machine that is great fun even while weighted down for full touring duty. It never leaves you wanting for something better and puts a smile on your face no matter what type of road you’re on.

Locations, locations... Loved Berlin, loved Prague—such different cities, both with something for everyone. The botanical gardens were a highlight—an oasis in the middle of a busy city.

The Fruithof Tack in Belgium, Louis Léger Hotel in Prague and Hotel Ambiente in Wemding all tie for best accommodation. Special mention to Hôtel-Restaurant Braas Sàrl in Eschdorf and Waldcafé Jäger in Bad Driburg for super-70s charm. Hotel Aldea in Berlin did the job, but the experience was tainted by the overeager cleaners.

Other notable highlights included unexpectedly being a part of a town celebration in Germany complete with a marching band, a few good runs on the autobahn and all the beautiful scenery from fields to forests throughout the journey.



But the standout of the trip was our time spent in the Alsace with Laure and her family at their winery. This region is so amazing it must be experienced first hand—so if you have the opportunity, don’t pass it up. A very special thank you to Laure for turning everything around for the better again on this trip.

Finally, thank you to Zev for putting up with the whole ‘grumpy cat’ persona—he’s not grumpy really.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

1 Jul 2014

Europe 2014: Day 12 - Eschdorf to London


Today was a day of motorways and covering ground as efficiently as possible—so unfortunately no photographs.

We went for breakfast around 9am and had a chat with the hotel owner who advised us to take it easy when we left as there had been three accidents—two of them fatal—in the past week in the area. A cyclist hit a tree but was not badly injured, another cyclist went off the road into a ravine and a motorcyclist collided with a truck on a bend. Not really what you want to hear before undertaking a 560km journey but good advice nevertheless.

The minor roads in Luxembourg are very narrow with some extremely tight corners and it’s easy to become complacent due to the low volume of traffic. It is absolutely essential to keep to the kerb side when following through the bends so the leaning bike doesn’t place your head into the oncoming lane.

At this time of year there are a lot of ‘sunny weather’ bikers out who are drawn to the beautiful roads in the area but who have limited experience—unfortunately this is a recipe for disaster. I ride year round in all weather on a daily basis and found some of the roads highly technical, so I can’t imagine riding quickly on these roads if it was my first ride since the previous summer. Despite the blanket 90kph speed limit, most of the corners can only be taken safely at speeds between 40 and 60kph.

We entered Belgium only 30 minutes after leaving (Luxembourg is only an hour from top to bottom) and slabbed it to Calais with a stop in Dunkerque to buy some food to eat on the train. The motorways may be boring but they are efficient when covering ground is a priority.

At the Eurotunnel terminal it cost €7 to change my ticket from Friday to today which was the difference between the two fares. Eurotunnel do run a good service, the ticketing is very accommodating. I naughtily went straight through instead of waiting for my slot and again was let onto the next available train saving an hour of waiting—every time I’ve crossed this has happened, I think once the cars are loaded they fill up any remaining space with any motorbikes that are waiting.

I’m aware that I should know better but we both got on the bike just before the train stopped on the UK side—the jostling is very disorienting (the road shouldn’t move!) and I almost had us over, avoiding a fall by the skin of my teeth... lesson learned.

The motorway back to London had fairly light traffic but the city was congested—the last eight miles are an insult on every trip, having to deal with London congestion when tired and so close to home.

Parked safe and sound at home, I was greeted by cheek covered in fur...

Milo’s favourite space for an afternoon snooze—squeezed into the sink.
I don’t doubt for a minute that a cat wouldn’t hesitate to eat your face if you died in your sleep, but alive and breathing, I also don’t doubt that they miss their servants immensely when you go away. He has been following me around all evening like a lost puppy.

I have laundry to do and I’m looking forward to a good night’s sleep in my own bed. Tomorrow will be all about sorting out my insurance claim and dropping off the bike with BMW to sort.

I will do a wrap up tomorrow (brain melting now) but a few fun facts for now:

  • Average consumption: 5.5 l/100km or 51mpg (brilliant for a fully loaded 1200cc bike)
  • Highest speed: 187kph/116mph (German autobahn)
  • Overall average speed: 42kph/26mph (including time stopped, for example traffic lights)
  • Moving average speed: 58kph/36mph
  • Distance covered: 3,500km/2,200mi

Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

Europe 2014: Day 11 - Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf


It was very sad to say goodbye to Laure but after two relaxing days in the Alsace it was time to make our way towards London.

After breakfast we packed our things and left around 11am towards Luxembourg. The weather was a bit patchy which was slightly concerning as our gear is no long waterproof now that it is riddled with holes. However, the worst we had was about 10 minutes of light rain.

The roads through the Vosges are perfect for motorbiking, one curve after another, up and down hills and through beautiful forests. At one point we hit the clouds and the temperature dropped to 11°C but as we descended it rose again to a perfect 23°C.

With all the dirt roads coming off the main highway, it was too tempting not to explore a few of them—almost all of them seemed to lead to logging areas, a bit of a shame to cut down such beautiful forests.

After we came out of the Vosges the scenery changed to fields.

Zev was a hit with the ladies.

Nice to be off the tarmac for a little while.

More fields—the kind you want to run through with your hands in the air like you just don’t care.

Zev here. I will not be running through the fields today.

I contemplated what it would be like to ride over the stack of logs but decided against it.

Apart from the droopy left handlebar, the R1200GS looks almost in one piece still...

Not long before it’s good as new again.

Zev again. Bored of posing for photos.

Nothing like smiling in front of a pile of logs.

After missing our turn the GPS rerouted us on this amazing single track road.

The bike waiting patiently while Zev explores the plant life.

Dried up brook winding its way through the forest.
We finally entered Luxembourg at 6pm and stopped in a small town to find a place to stop for the day. About 15 minutes away was Hôtel-Restaurant Braas Sàrl in Eschdorf which had reasonably priced rooms still available. Unfortunately the road was closed due to works so we had to go the long way round and progress was slow as I was feeling tired.

We arrived at about 7pm and checked in before making our way to the hotel restaurant for dinner. I’ve not seen 70s-vibe style like this hotel in a long, long time—even the lift doors were painted 70s tan with actual pushbuttons for the floor... amazing!

Zev contemplates life as he waits for his dinner.

The hotel lounge—super-70s style!

At night this little village in the middle of the Ardennes is so quiet you could hear a cat walking across the road—not a sound anywhere, almost eerie.

Great day today, but I’m feeling it now and it’s definitely time for a good night’s sleep.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

30 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 10 - Ammerschwihr


I’m too old to party into the wee hours and slept until 11am. I’d promised Laure I’d look at her mother’s computer and then we all had lunch together.

I managed to remove the panniers without too much difficulty (despite the release mechanism being bent on the left side) so we could explore some of the narrow Alsatian roads in the hills around Ammerschwihr.

We went to Kaysersberg first to find a bar of soap Zev wanted entitled ‘the birth of a cat’—a very strange piece indeed with the shapes of a kitten and a womb incorporated into the bar. The soap maker hadn’t made this design for a while so we left empty-handed.

More colour, more flowers, more greenery—I never get bored of the scenery.

The Kaysersberg city hall with a madwoman in pink playing accordion while wearing sunglasses.

Another garden set into the roadway.
We carried on to Riquewihr and went up into the mountains. The roads are only single track so it is important to be very careful on the many blind corners as it’s very tight even for a motorbike to pass an oncoming car.

Out of the vineyards, the scenery changed to lush forests of evergreen trees. It was tempting to explore some of the dirt trails coming off the main road but I decided to leave these for another visit—although my confidence is back for the most part, I still find myself feeling nervous on questionable surfaces.

A quick break among the trees.

Zev kicks into action looking for more plant samples.

The single lane road winding through the Alsatian woods.

A snail about 4cm in diameter—it looked like a slug with a shell!

One of several water pumping stations—rather than ugly industrial pumps ruining the forests, the councils have successfully integrated them into the scenery.

Hello everyone, it’s Zev. I’m feeling somewhat nervous precariously sitting next to a steep embankment.

The bike’s ‘good side’ until repairs are carried out.

Yup. I had to get in on the valley background photo action.

A panorama of the valley.

We returned to Ammerschwihr for a mandatory wine tasting at Laure’s family winery which celebrated its 400th year in operation this year. Laure is the 15th generation of her family to run the winery.

This is Pinot, a Maine Coon mix which means despite his pissed off expression he is actually a very social and affectionate creature.

An old wine press in the tasting room.

I’ll take the whole bottle please.

Behaving myself this time—and I should mention my appreciation of Laure’s generosity to allow us to stay in her winery for three nights to recuperate.

Pinot is not amused.

Just a small part of the winery.

Looking up the road with the winery in the distance.

Of course my favourite wine of all was a delicious 2007 special selection Gewürztraminer made with handpicked, late season grapes. It is only made every five years or so in small batches, and sold in 500ml bottles (instead of the usual 750ml). It is meant to be a dessert wine, or one to enjoy with very rich food. A bottle like this would go for £70+ in London easily, but direct from the winery it was a shockingly reasonable €28.

Afterwards we went to a local restaurant Aux Armes de France for dinner—far, far more posh a restaurant than I would normally go to, but once in a while you have to treat yourself. After a 5 course meal I only had to roll 100 metres back to the winery.

On the way home I saw this sign—I can’t say I’ve ever had fine Alsatian colon wine before...

The flats at the winery.
It’s hard to believe in the morning we’ll be hopping on the bike and aiming the GPS to London, but our stop in the Alsace has been just what the doctor ordered to put the trip back on track. Next time I’ll bring a tent and squat in one of the vineyards...


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

29 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 9 - Ammerschwihr


Saturday was Laure’s day off so we all had a lie-in until about 10:30am before meeting up in Laure’s flat for breakfast. Afterwards we went with Laure in the car to Colmar, the main town in the area 7km away. We had a lot of difficulty finding parking as the old part of the town is very popular with tourists from Germany and Switzerland (both less than an hour away).

Laure played tour guide for a while before going off to do some shopping and leaving us to our own devices. Unfortunately I forgot to bring my camera so all photos are iPhone snaps.

Colmar (the old part) definitely fits the criteria for charming Alsatian towns.

Canals and buildings integrate to make a very calming atmosphere despite the droves of tourists.

Every road is full of colour.

Maison des têtes—now a hotel, there are several thousand unique heads sculpted throughout the building.

Any kind of nougat you desire.

After Laure went off, we had coffee and a snack at a café before visiting the Colmar museum.

Artwork on the side of an ark—their faces are somewhat disturbing.

A king.

One of Captain Janeway’s ancestors?

Le char de la mort (aka the chariot of death)—a rather gory 18th century work.

Stained glass—if I was a woman with such pert breasts I think I would have just as smug an expression on my face as she does. 

Jesus meets Conchita Wurst

Dinner is served.

No bears will attack with this aggressive goose at the helm...

The architecture of the museum seemed to fuse roman and gothic styles.

I wouldn’t mess with this pup...

Erm... I’m sort of at a loss for words... although he does illustrate the term ‘barefaced cheek’.

He’s looking a bit disgruntled with his donkey.

Three boaters wafting along.

Almost too much colour to process.

A resident about to park in his garage.

Leaving the old town.

The covered market.

A rare treat in London—flat peaches which taste much fruitier than the usual round ones.

An almost endless variety of cheeses from the region and beyond.

Zev here. I’m overwhelmed by the selection of cheese. Stop looking at my English tan.

More cheeses—some of these are aged in caves.

Local salami varieties.

Passing by the vineyards on the way back to Ammerschwihr.

Grapes growing up the hillside as far as you can see.

After a quite rest back in Ammerschwihr we were invited to join Laure and her partner Manu to go to their friend Esther’s birthday party 30km away in Guebwiller. She works for a winery and is also the caretaker for the main building, living onsite in flat built on the third floor.

After dinner and drinks we attempted to play the French version of Charades which had its challenges with seven native French speakers and two native English speakers. Mix in some booze and it made for quite an entertaining evening.

Ester’s three month old Australian Shepherd Jincy.

After nearly six hours of hyperactivity, Jincy finally depleted his energy reserves.
We arrived back in Ammerschwihr at about 2:30am, well past my bedtime.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up