Showing posts with label Fruithof Tack. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fruithof Tack. Show all posts

3 Jul 2014

Europe 2014: Wrapping up


How to wrap up... well I’ll start with the negative bits of which there are only a few. The elephant in the room is of course the oil slick between the Czech villages of Leontýn and Karlov which caused the bike to spit us off at 70kph—you can read more here. Coincidentally this is by far the most read entry about this trip on my blog—you guys are bloodthirsty!!

A big negative was missing out visiting our friends in Austria—we were really looking forward to seeing them, but given the mishap, we felt it was best not to go even further from home before the bike could be repaired. Unfortunately this also meant I wasted €40 on vignettes for Austria and Switzerland but that’s not the end of the world.

Perhaps minor in the grand scheme of things, but it really pissed me off that the cleaners came into the room two mornings in a row at the hotel in Berlin at stupid o’clock (around 8am)—with the ‘do not disturb’ hanger on the door. Few things wind me up but I do like my privacy—why bother making these hangers?

Oh, and the rubbish timing of Berlin traffic lights—needlessly causing congestion—the worst I’ve come across in any city.

Finally, the BMW Navigator IV (aka Garmin 660) wound me up a few times because it is bloody slow when calculating routes avoiding the main roads/motorways—I mean have a coffee and a sandwich slow. What takes the GPS app in my iPhone three seconds to calculate was taking up to 10 minutes to calculate on the dedicated Navigator. The workaround is to avoid calculating routes to places further than a few hundred kilometres at a time. I understand the Navigator V is much quicker but I’m not spending £500 on another GPS when this one otherwise works great.

Now the positives. Firstly the technology bits—a special mention once again for the Sena SMH5 bluetooth headsets. The best technology is that which works invisibly in the background and Sena have really nailed it with this product. Never a problem and two days’ battery life out of a single charge. My camera, laptop and phone all happily buzzed along as well.

The bike was great, aforementioned incident notwithstanding. All loaded up we were fairly close to the weight limit but there was more than enough power to go as fast as you like. Even fully loaded the brakes are strong enough to lift the rear wheel and the clutch feather light. With the Gear Shift Assist Pro system, touring is effortless—despite a few random missed shifts where the system seemed to get confused—overall, well worth the extra cost.

It seems the days of boxers engines drinking oil are over, as it didn’t consume any. Average fuel consumption was a very acceptable 51mph—better than many 600cc bikes (my old Honda Hornet got around 45mph), and only 9mph less than my F800GS on a similar trip. For reference, the worst I saw on the computer was 13mpg on heavy throttle accelerating up a long, steep hill and the best was around 75mpg on cruise control at 50mph on level ground.

There is a minor quirk of the fuelling system on this bike—modern engines cut the fuel flow while decelerating (to reduce pollution and improve fuel consumption) and this ‘feature’ made itself known at times while maintaining a low speed (30mph) while travelling on a slight decline, resulting in some roughness.

All in all, the new R1200GS is a reliable, well engineered machine that is great fun even while weighted down for full touring duty. It never leaves you wanting for something better and puts a smile on your face no matter what type of road you’re on.

Locations, locations... Loved Berlin, loved Prague—such different cities, both with something for everyone. The botanical gardens were a highlight—an oasis in the middle of a busy city.

The Fruithof Tack in Belgium, Louis Léger Hotel in Prague and Hotel Ambiente in Wemding all tie for best accommodation. Special mention to Hôtel-Restaurant Braas Sàrl in Eschdorf and Waldcafé Jäger in Bad Driburg for super-70s charm. Hotel Aldea in Berlin did the job, but the experience was tainted by the overeager cleaners.

Other notable highlights included unexpectedly being a part of a town celebration in Germany complete with a marching band, a few good runs on the autobahn and all the beautiful scenery from fields to forests throughout the journey.



But the standout of the trip was our time spent in the Alsace with Laure and her family at their winery. This region is so amazing it must be experienced first hand—so if you have the opportunity, don’t pass it up. A very special thank you to Laure for turning everything around for the better again on this trip.

Finally, thank you to Zev for putting up with the whole ‘grumpy cat’ persona—he’s not grumpy really.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

23 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 2 - Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg


After a huge buffet-style breakfast we left the Fruitoff Tack around 11am and headed toward Aachen for a quick stop at FC Moto so Zev could buy a new helmet.

Mrs and Mr Tack, owners of the beautiful Fruithof Tack.
Ready to point the GPS to Berlin.
Belgium is full of speed cameras—there is one at nearly every traffic light. At a cost of several thousand Euros each, I’m not surprised the country has financial difficulties! Even more annoying are the 70kph speed limits off the motorways—most EU countries have 90–100kph speed limits on these types of roads. Cruise control is a very good thing on a bike...

Around lunchtime we stopped for another high end dining experience in a Carrefour car park.

Shut up. I haven’t had my Carrefour chocolate covered waffle yet.
The most amazing disabled sign I’ve ever seen—so loungy, and with curious alien shaped head.
We arrived in Aachen just after 4pm and discovered that FC Moto closed at 4. So no new helmet for Zev. I’d assumed a shop like this would be open until at least 5 or 6pm on a Saturday so this was somewhat of a disappointment. I programmed Berlin into the GPS and we set off again.

However, the B-roads afterwards made up for this. I’ve mentioned on a previous trip how well-engineered German roads are, and with 100kph limits you can cover ground effectively. The roads wind through fields, forests and little towns, all with quite spectacular scenery and very little traffic. It was almost like we had the countryside to ourselves.

We stopped for a quick rest at a park.

Zev here with a smile. These foxgloves would make a lovely spot
of tea—if you wanted to bump someone off, that is.
More than just a fern. It’s a German fern.
I’m no sculptor or art critic but bloody hell what a ghastly work this is...
Afterwards I hit the autobahn for an hour to make up a few miles. With the panniers and top box fitted BMW recommend a top speed of 180kph/110mph which is understandable considering they are as aerodynamic as bricks and can therefore potentially induce oscillations in the chassis (weaving) at very high speeds. For the record, at this speed the R1200GS gets 35mpg according to the computer—therefore you can empty a tank in less than 2 hours! And the engine howls (around 6,500rpm) with the exhaust flap wide open. Some of the sections of the clip are sped up 8x and apologies in advance for the crap audio.


One autobahn moment made me laugh—there were two people on a 4-cylinder Japanese adventure-style bike who were riding around 160kph/100mph when we passed by. About 10 minutes later, I heard what sounded like mosquito trapped in a hairdryer and they passed us again at around 12,000rpm. To the rider—if you read this, sorry you felt you had something to prove :)

We excused ourselves from the autobahn and headed back into the countryside, stopping to refuel in a little village which was decorated with bunting over the road. Almost immediately after we rode through, they closed the road and a marching band appeared out of nowhere. We’d inadvertently taken part in this town’s festival.

Zev here. I’m avoiding eye contact with Grandma and her
hot wheels behind me... I don’t know what her game is...
While refuelling we were serenaded by a marching band. Reason 117 to love Germany.
Continuing on we came across vast fields of bearded grass. I suspect this is grown to feed livestock during the winter months—but whatever the reason, the colours seemed to be part of an augmented reality.

And reason 118 would be the golden fields.
No. You’re wrong. This is not an HDR photo—these colours are real.
The great divide between young and old.
Yes, the temptation to ride the motorbike through one of these fields was almost overwhelming, but the idea of spending the rest of my holiday in a German prison put a damper on it.

Around 8pm we started to get tired and hungry. As we descended a hill we saw a glowing ‘m’ poking through the treetops so we gave in to all sense and shamefully stopped for Happy Meals. Bellies full of questionable content, I found a potential hotel nearby.

We arrived and the hotel was locked up tight—in fact the whole town of Bad Driburg was devoid of people and traffic, very strange for a Saturday night during the World Cup! After a few minutes a woman opened the door and said they were closed, but that she would call another hotel nearby.

Success! We had a nice room in an extraordinarily 70s-kitsch hotel on the top of a hill—the Waldcafé Jäger. They let me park the bike in their beer cellar, possibly the most unique parking space to date. Sadly, however, their WiFi was broken—I like to get an idea of where I’ll be travelling the next day as I wind down for bed. But such is life.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

21 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 1 - London to Sint-Gillis-Waas


So much for an early start—by the time we were fed, watered and my cousin Carol given a crash course in my cat’s dietary regime, plus a last minute update for something at work, we set off at 11am with no hope of making our scheduled 11:48am Eurotunnel crossing.

It was my hope to fit everything in the panniers without expanding them (makes filtering through traffic easier with a narrower backside) but I finally gave in. Regardless, I think it was an accomplishment to fit 15 days’ gear for two people completely in three panniers and a tankbag without having to sit on any of them to close them.

Traffic in London had died down from the morning rush and the M20 motorway was practically empty so we made good time, the journey taking around an hour and a half.

The woman in the Eurotunnel check-in booth was oh-so-Folkestone as she scolded us like naughty school boys about being 45 minutes late and handed over the boarding card for the next available train, insisting that Zev promise he wouldn’t drop it as we rode off. Eurotunnel provide a great service as they will honour bookings ±2 hours from the scheduled time, presumably to prevent people from driving dangerously to make their slot—however this can involve a wait if it’s a particularly busy day.

No shame in a clean GS—waiting in terminal hell for our new slot
After 25 minutes I got tired of waiting under the beating sun at the terminal, and despite having an ’N’ crossing slot, tried my luck while they were calling the ‘K’ slot. My luck paid off as they didn’t even check, and just waved me through toward border control.

The first booth is to check out of the UK, and the second is to check into France. Of course these are both EU areas so they are only interested in people trying to transport restricted items (including pets which require a pet passport to re-enter the UK). It is unusual for motorbikes to be stopped due to their minimal cargo capacity. In fact, French border control wasn’t interested in seeing passports and didn’t even ask either of us to remove our helmets.

We ended up getting on the ‘K’ train along with about 10 other bikers, all with UK registrations, distributed between two carriages. A few Triumph Explorers, a Daytona, at least three R1200RTs, two F800GSs and a blue Yamaha XT660Z Ténéré (like this bike a lot!) among others. Mine was the only R1200GS which is slightly surprising as this is the top selling bike over 600cc in the UK.

Hello. I’m Zev. I’m hot and bothered because I kept my helmet on the whole time we were queued
in the beating sun before boarding the train. Now it’s all wet inside. So shut up and let me read.
The RT behind my bike in the photo above belongs to a Scotsman who’d just toured England. He’s now off to the Black Forest. He commended Zev’s bravery for agreeing to ride pillion for 3,000 miles.

The Eurotunnel trains are so smooth, no tie downs are required—bikes must be on the side stand, in 1st gear angled toward the kerb in the carriage. Couldn’t be easier.

Hello. Zev again. Not only are you still disturbing my reading, but now you’re interfering
with my yoga moves. I hate you and I’m going to shove that camera down your throat.
All said and done, and jumping an hour ahead from GMT to CET we came out the other side about 3pm. Out the other side and up to speed, we were feeling somewhat more refreshed and in better spirits. As soon as we crossed over the border into Belgium (about 25 minutes ride) I exited the motorway and reprogrammed the GPS to route on the backroads.

I’ll pause for a moment to mention that we are already altering the original route plan—skipping the visit to my family in Sneek as they are away. So I’ve pointed the GPS to Aachen (originally planned for the end of the trip) for a stop at FC-Moto so Zev can buy a new helmet to replace his ageing (and very noisy) Shark S500.

We reached Brugge around 5pm and it was overwhelmed by mainly English-speaking tourists (UK and American/Canadian)—as in, we could barely get through the streets. I finally made my way to my favourite little Egyptian restaurant opposite the Frietmuseum and was disappointed to read a note on the door that the owner was on holidays until next week. The other restaurants and cafés nearby had menus starting from €25, a bit steep for a light supper, and clearly cashing in on the tourists.

We figured this was our cue to leave Brugge with empty bellies and find a supermarket along the way. I adore Brugge, but visits are best left for the off season—February/March and October/November when the streets are quiet and the restaurants return to ‘local’ pricing.

Belgium’s roads have improved substantially since even last year with barely a pothole in sight, and the backroads cut through some beautiful scenery—tree lined stretches, red poppies everywhere and fields of onions and corn. Because of the proximity to the North Sea, northern Belgium can be extremely gusty, and there are sections of planted forests which act as windbreakers. These are found around northern France as well.

We came across Buurtwinkels OKay supermarket in Assenede and chose a few bits and pieces for an on-the-go dinner. I love that AriZona tea drinks—my sugar rush of choice—are offered everywhere in Belgium as they are near impossible to find in the UK. However, I discovered that supermarkets in Belgium don’t take debit/credit cards (they only accept cash or a special local credit card for this purpose from what I understood) and I hadn’t stopped at an ATM to withdraw cash. The cashier was kind enough to hang on to our groceries while we rode a few kilometres to the nearest cash point.

After our classy car park dinner party we carried on in the general direction of Aachen. By 8:30pm I was feeling more and more distracted so it was time to fire up the booking.com app to find someplace suitable to settle down for the evening.

And what a place we found—the Fruithof Tack in Sint-Gillis-Waas, not far from Antwerp. As the name implies, it is a B&B located next to apple and pear orchards. The whole place, from top to bottom, is absolutely gorgeous and the owners welcomed us into their home with local lagers and an hour of warm and friendly conversation. They opened up their fruit processing area so the bike would be secure and even insisted on carrying up the luggage. Couldn’t have asked for more—highly recommended.

After a day where things were just a bit more difficult than they should have been (and not enough photos were taken), being able to type this post from one of the most comfortable beds I’ve experienced in a long time was the perfect way to wind down.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up