25 Jun 2013

Day 3: Slow road to Ammerschwihr


We woke up at 9am and checked out by 10. I had messaged Tom the night before to say we had made it to our next stop in one piece and prematurely gloated about the lack of rain. Of course it was raining this morning—lesson to self: never tempt fate.

By this point we were only 200 km from Ammerschwihr but little did I know it would take nearly 5 hours to cover that distance. The Alsace is a mountainous region with tiny roads, unless you opt to slab it down the Autoroute (we didn't).

We searched for a boulangerie in a village, only to circle three times before seeing it tucked among the other buildings. We had freshly baked quiches and pain-au-chocolats. I don't know how the French do it, but you can never find pastry so light and delicious outside of France. And the bakeries seem to be absolutely consistent, the quality is the same wherever you are.

The rougher end of the village.

As we left the village the floodgates opened and we endured the next hour in a downpour. My Icon gear is the first I've had from this brand and I can happily report that it does indeed live up to the advertising. Not a drop of water came in.

After a few faster roads the GPS sent me up a mountain track. This road was barely wide enough for two motorbikes to pass let alone a car and it appeared to be formed out of shingles of asphalt. But the scenery was absolutely stunning, you could almost taste the green.

Inevitable 'comfort' break.

Lush Alsatian woods. 

Trees older than any of us.

After such a long winter this year, everything has exploded in green.

Out the other end we came to a beautiful twisty mountain road (I was told later it is a destination road for bikers) and carried on to Ammerschwihr. With only 5km to go, like magic we came out of the mountains into a valley of vineyards and even the sun started peaking out from the clouds. The air had the scent of grape flowers, a musty, earthy smell that reminds me of summer.

We arrived at my friend Laure's family winery and after a warm welcome, moved the panniers into their guesthouse.

A day late but mission accomplished—made it to J B Adam winery.

Naomi got competition.

Another view of J B Adam winery.

399 years after inception, the one of the winery buildings becomes a make-shift shelter for a lone F800GS.

Laure wanted to show us around Kaysersberg, a picturesque Alsatian village 5 minutes from Ammerschwihr so we loaded into her fancy 4x4 and set off. I felt so oddly disconnected to reality riding in a car again, almost as though you're not moving.

15 generations from the founding Adam, the lovely Laure carries on the family tradition.

An Alsatian trademark—storks.

The town looks like something out of a fantasy, complete with babbling brook.

Everywhere clean and tidy.

Rub-a-dub-dub—artisan soaps.

Ladybird, stork and cat soaps.

Cobblestone roads.

A little waterfall.

Laure gets handy with the camera.

One beautiful street after another.

Everywhere you look is immaculate.

Laure and Zev contemplate the most effective way to caloric overindulgence with a full range of Alsatian spiced bread treats.

Constantine Fountain built in 1321.

Alsatian butchers—too much temptation for anyone with a soft spot for wurst.

Leaving the town.

We headed back to the winery to get ready to go to L'empereur de la tarte flambée, a restaurant in nearby Kintzheim, which apparently serves the best tarte flambée in the Alsace. But not before a late night private wine tasting of J B Adam's best.

Muscat the winery puss.

A private late night extended wine tasting courtesy of Laure.

This bottle will do...

We went to the restaurant and had far too much to eat and drink. Tarte flambée is the Alsatian answer to pizza—a thin crust with cheese, cream, onions and lardons fired in an impossibly hot oven until the edges are singed. Absolutely devine.

We arrived back at the guesthouse around 11pm and it was straight to sleep.


Alps 2013 quick links


Day 1: London to Lille
Day 2: Lille to Hagondange
Day 3: Slow road to Ammerschwihr
Day 4: Ammerschwihr
Day 5: Ammerschwihr to Thônes
Day 6: Thônes to.... Thônes
Day 7: Thônes to Ruèras
Day 8: Ruèras to Flachau
Day 9: Flachau
Day 10: Flachau to Wemding
Day 11: Wemding to Urberach
Day 12: Urberach to Antwerp
Day 13: Antwerp to London

The gear and how it held up
The trip in hindsight

24 Jun 2013

Day 2: Lille to Hagondange


Needless to say, it was somewhat easier to bring the panniers down the 3 flights and we set off around 10am the next morning, with a couple beautiful baguette sandwiches courtesy of Tom. I discovered a truly annoying quirk of my GPS when using preprogrammed routes. It likes to navigate you to the start of the route—in this case the geographical centre point of Lille—unless you can find a road along the programmed route. At home this is easy, but in foreign territory somewhat less so, and we ended up doing a needless loop through central Lille in Monday morning traffic.

45 minutes later we were heading out of Lille and then into Belgium. The rumours are true, they may as well not bother with a sign when you cross the open border, as the roads go from French perfection to war-torn as though someone flipped a switch.

I'm not sure if everyone in Belgium is currently on their holidays but many of the villages and towns we went through looked almost boarded up, with no people walking along and very few cars parked beside the roads.

Stopped to stimulate blood-flow through numb bottoms.

This stretch of road had the only signs of life in the village, with a couple shops open but everywhere else looked abandonned.

No people to be seen.

We stopped to fill up in Beaumont where we spoke with our first Belgians—the woman and (presumably) her daughter at the petrol station. All my initial perceptions changed, they were so welcoming and friendly, and curious about our trip. I spent about 10 minutes chatting with them—I find it heartwarming to meet people who have a genuine interest curiosity about things outside their everyday circles.

Something that stuck me as slightly curious was that they thanked me for speaking French to them... I would never think to thank someone for speaking English to me in the UK. I always try to learn at least enough of a local language to get by, I think it's callous to expect people in other countries to accommodate me in my own language.

A young sheep having a lie-down over the road from the petrol station in Beaumont.

We carried on through a mix of fast roads and slow (but all riddled with holes) as the GPS threaded us toward Luxembourg. On one downhill stretch a police BMW X5 flew past, lights blazing, and a few minutes later we came across an accident where it seems a car smashed straight into a barrier. The front end had been evenly compressed up to the passenger compartment. Hopefully the occupants were ok but it was still a sobering sight knowing they undoubtedly didn't intend for their day to end up like that.

Zev started making noises about food so we diverted up a narrow country in search of a village restaurant for some of Belgium's specialty—frites. After wandering around several villages and a track through a field we came across a restaurant which, like much of the rest of the country, was closed up tight. We stayed in the gravel car park and finished our baguette sandwiches.

Temperature dropped so time to get out a few extra layers.

Back on the main road we carried on slaloming around the holes and before long we were at the open border to Luxembourg.

I should reflect on the journey through Belgium. It is a beautiful country with some of the warmest and friendly people I've come across. The scenery is amazing and we both enjoyed our (short) time there. Still not sure why so many villages seemed almost uninhabited, but summer is the time when people go on holidays en-mass so perhaps someone could comment on this?

Still in good spirits and in one piece.

Luxembourg is one of the richest countries in the world as they have no national deficit. And it shows. The roads are instantly smooth as glass and seem to be engineered to be as enjoyable as possible for bikes and cars alike with endless and perfectly banked curves threading along the hills.

Every village looked like a movie set, immaculately presented without a single chocolate bar wrapper or cigarette butt to be seen. Every building seemed to be coated in a fresh lick of paint and everything seemed to coordinate together from the buildings to the gardens. Coming from London it was practically a culture shock.

Somewhere in rural Luxembourg resting the bottoms.

It only took about 2 hours to cross the country from top to bottom but Luxembourg has earned a spot on my 'must visit again' list.

I've barely mentioned two words about the bike and this is high praise indeed. It carried on with its duties, fully loaded, without so much as a burp. The F800GS is no muscle bike but even loaded up to its limit you never lack power in any way. So far on this trip I have averaged 60mpg on the dot according to the onboard computer—certainly nothing to complain about.

If I had to whinge about something, it would be the seat. The comfort seat is a million years ahead of the standard plank, which is stricter than a German head teacher administering a rap on the knuckles with a ruler, but I still find myself needing to disembark at least once every two hours.

The SPOT Connect is a different matter, however I seem to have learned its quirks now. If I did it again, I would have bought the standard version without Bluetooth connectivity. Unless the app is running in the foreground on the smartphone, the SPOT seems to stop tracking. As a result there are several gaps in the map. Also, the unit requires you to press the power button once every two hours to maintain the tracking function. Annoying.

I filled up with petrol in Luxembourg (city) where fuel is around 30–40 cents cheaper per litre, another sign of a country without a national deficit. The people were friendly, but perhaps not quite as warm as the Belgians.

We were back in France without even knowing it, as I didn't see the open border sign. Still 250km from Ammerschwihr, we were feeling tired and decided to find a hotel. One of the most useful apps on my phone for travelling has to be 'Booking Tonight' from booking.com. Hotels with vacancies will publish reduced rates in an effort to fill their last available rooms, often at discounts up to 75%. I found a hotel for €33 8km away in Hagondange so we headed straight over.

The hotel was not what you would call luxurious, but it did the job and the patronne was a lovely older French lady so I was sold. It had semi-secured parking for the bike and a pizza place was round the corner so we bought a couple take-away pizzas to bring back to the hotel. Despite internet access I was too tired to write so passed out until the next morning.

Always prefer to have the bike in sight from my room.

A wider view of the semi-secured car park.

And in HDR for the surrealists.


Alps 2013 quick links


Day 1: London to Lille
Day 2: Lille to Hagondange
Day 3: Slow road to Ammerschwihr
Day 4: Ammerschwihr
Day 5: Ammerschwihr to Thônes
Day 6: Thônes to.... Thônes
Day 7: Thônes to Ruèras
Day 8: Ruèras to Flachau
Day 9: Flachau
Day 10: Flachau to Wemding
Day 11: Wemding to Urberach
Day 12: Urberach to Antwerp
Day 13: Antwerp to London

The gear and how it held up
The trip in hindsight

23 Jun 2013

Day 1: London to Lille


My last proper holiday was in August 2012 meaning I've been well overdue... similarly, I still had 23.5 of my 27 days of annual leave to use up before September, as we are only permitted to carry over up to 5 days and the rest will dissolve into the ether.

But the last few months have been gruelling to say the least, since March to June is the time where we have a number of statutory documents to produce and several events to coordinate. This has left me somewhat more than exhausted.

Sunday morning rolled around and of course I could hardly bring myself to get out of bed and into the shower despite the excitement of finally getting away. We eventually left at 11am which was insufficient time to make our scheduled Eurotunnel crossing at 12:30, more than 100 miles away from London in Folkestone.

Sure enough, we arrived at 1:15 and the automated check-in kiosk moved me to the 1:35 shuttle. The Eurotunnel is a service I can't really fault since the tickets have a ±2 hour leeway on all bookings, recognising the fact that it simply isn't possible to foresee traffic conditions, dragging my fat arse out of bed on time etc.

On the English side you go through French passport control which is nothing more than a formality (or joke, depending on your point of view)—we weren't asked to remove our helmets, and when I was fumbling to open my tankbag for the passports he told me to forget about it and go.

And go I did, since by then I had only 5 minutes before the departure to get onto the train. I needn't have worried, however, since I waited nearly 30 minutes to get on the train, along with 2 other bikers, as one of the earlier trains had a problem in the tunnel and blocked up everything.

Safely stopped in the train, on the side stand and in 1st gear with the front wheel against the kerb, we finally got underway just before 2pm and came out the other end 30 minutes later plus one hour for the French time change at 3:30pm.

Zev contemplates the shuttle journey.

In position, no tie-downs required. Honda ST1300 rider suspiciously kept to himself the entire journey, clearly we were too common for socialising.

Trust the Dutch to throw in a 'hoe kunt' when explaining how to get help.

Coming out the French side of the Eurotunnel you are quite literally ejected straight onto a motorway and often greeted to the wrath of North Sea winds threatening to blow you into the next lane. I had preprogrammed the route into the GPS and specified no motorways or toll roads where possible and it dutifully guided me along France's excellent N-road network toward Lille.

The N-roads are generally 90km/hr (110km/hr where they are divided with 4 lanes) and thread through all sorts of towns and villages. Taking theses routes means effectively doubling the journey time compared to slabbing it on the Autoroute (motorway). However, rather than hours of hedges and concrete barriers, the N-routes provide a scenic way to see some local culture and makes you feel more connected with the country.

We stopped to fill up in Hazelbrouck. Two bikers came racing up the road, nearly colliding into each other, then skidded to a stop and began to scream at each other. Not sure what to make of that and, judging from the faces of everyone around including the woman behind the counter in the petrol station, neither did they... Then, just as quickly, they hopped back on their bikes and tore off.

Fuel stop in Hazelbrouck, somewhere between Calais and Lille.

As good a seat as any...

We arrived at Tom's around 6pm, a good two hours later than expected. Living in a traditional northeastern French building with steep and narrow circling flights of stairs, he kindly helped carry our panniers up 3 flights to his flat. We were shortly joined by two of his friends for a delicious grilled dinner and plenty of conversation over ales. We couldn't have asked for a warmer welcome to France and finally got to sleep around 2am. Thank you again Tom!

A warm arrival.


Alps 2013 quick links


Day 1: London to Lille
Day 2: Lille to Hagondange
Day 3: Slow road to Ammerschwihr
Day 4: Ammerschwihr
Day 5: Ammerschwihr to Thônes
Day 6: Thônes to.... Thônes
Day 7: Thônes to Ruèras
Day 8: Ruèras to Flachau
Day 9: Flachau
Day 10: Flachau to Wemding
Day 11: Wemding to Urberach
Day 12: Urberach to Antwerp
Day 13: Antwerp to London

The gear and how it held up
The trip in hindsight

16 May 2013

The new BMW F 800 GS Adventure



On 2 May BMW announced the new F800GS Adventure. In a nutshell it comes with larger fuel tank, different front fairings, a reinforced rear frame and different programming of the ABS and ASC systems to enable 'enduro mode'.

Things I like? The new eye-level GPS mount. The extra range of the larger tank. The new, near-vertical tall windscreen. The standard 'comfort' seat. The 'enduro mode' of the optional ABS/ASC system which reduces the need to stop to switch off the ABS system when going from paved to unpaved roads.

Things I don't like? Without actually riding the bike—only one, really... the drivetrain changes from the regular F800GS to the Adventure (different gear ratios or sprockets from what I can tell) result in a roughly 10% reduction in fuel economy.

Read the official BMW press release below.

Image credits: BMW Group PressClub Global.



BMW Motorrad is the most successful manufacturer of large-capacity touring enduros and, with the F 700 GS and F 800 GS, leads the way in the mid-size category, too.

The new F 800 GS Adventure builds on this position. Based on the dynamic, off-road-oriented F 800 GS, the Adventure model offers an optimal combination of agility, touring practicality and off-road capability. Following the tradition of the popular boxer-engined GS Adventure models, it provides off-road-oriented touring aficionados, world travellers and enduro fans with an authentic GS Adventure experience in the mid-size segment. 

The F 800 GS Adventure is powered by the characterful, liquid-cooled 798 cc four-valve twin-cylinder engine as featured on the F 800 GS, with electronic fuel injection, closed-loop catalytic converter and six-speed transmission. Developing unchanged maximum power of 63 kW (85 hp) at 7,500 rpm, and with maximum torque of 83 Nm at 5,750 rpm, this power plant impresses with quick and lively response, powerful torque and low fuel consumption.

Engineered and equipped for world travel. Like the F 800 GS, the Adventure model too features a robust, torsionally resistant tubular steel spaceframe, although the rear subframe is reinforced to cater for the larger, 24-litre tank (8 litres more than on the F 800 GS model), which increases the bike's range. Like the F 800 GS, the Adventure model is equipped with ABS as standard, while further safety- and performance-enhancing systems – Automatic Stability Control (ASC) and Electronic Suspension Adjustment (ESA) – are available as factory-fitted optional extras, or as special accessories. These features position the BMW F 800 GS Adventure, along with the F 800 GS, as the safest mid-size touring enduro on the market.

As another optional extra, the new F 800 GS Adventure is available with Enduro mode as part of a package featuring ASC.  At the press of a button, the rider can increase the slip threshold of the ABS and ASC systems when heading off-road, for an even more dynamic riding experience and with improved acceleration and braking on loose terrain.

The F 800 GS Adventure boasts a new, masculine bodywork styling that underlines its globetrotting abilities, while a new, very comfortable bench seat, a larger windscreen for improved protection against the elements and hand protectors also support this image. Other new standard specification on the F 800 GS Adventure includes wide enduro footrests, an adjustable, reinforced foot brake lever, an engine protection bar and a pannier rack which also functions as a tank protection bar.

BMW F 800 GS Adventure "Launch Edition". The new F 800 GS Adventure will first hit the market in a 1,000-unit "Launch Edition". The highlight of the F 800 GS Adventure "Launch Edition" is its Sandrover matt paintwork in combination with three equipment packages. The Comfort package comprises an onboard computer, heated grips and a centre stand. The Enduro package comes with ASC plus Enduro mode, and the Special accessories package features a lockable aluminium case set, a topcase holder and BMW Motorrad Navigator Adventure including holder and cable.

Highlights of the new BMW F 800 GS Adventure compared to the F 800 GS:

  • Based on the same versatile overall concept as the F 800 GS, with powerful twin-cylinder engine and agile suspension, but with enhanced off-road and globetrotting abilities.
  • Robust and masculine GS Adventure bodywork styling.
  • Balanced proportions, despite large rear tank.
  • Larger, 24-litre fuel tank (+ 8 litres).
  • Extended range (by approx. 120 km / 75 miles).
  • ABS as standard, ASC as a factory-fitted optional extra or as a special accessory.
  • Enduro mode as a new optional extra, in combination with ASC.
  • Electronic Suspension Adjustment (ESA) as a factory-fitted optional extra.
  • Reinforced rear subframe.
  • Even more comfortable bench seat.
  • Large windscreen.
  • Wide enduro footrests.
  • Adjustable, reinforced foot brake lever.
  • Engine protection bar.
  • Pannier rack also serves as a tank protection bar.
  • Wide range of special accessories and ex-works optional extras.
Key technical differences at a glance:

SpecificationsBMW F 800 GS AdventureBMW F 800 GS
Tank volume24 litres16 litres
Standard seat height890 mm880 mm
low seat height860 mm850 mm
Lower optionnoyes, 820 mm
DIN unladen weight229 kg214 kg
Max load225 kg230 kg
Dimensions L / W / H2,305 / 925 / 1,450 mm2,300 / 920 / 1,345 mm

Fuel consumption

BMW F 800 GS Adventure

BMW F 800 GS
90 / 120 km/h4.3 / 5.7 l3.8 / 5.2 l
55 / 75 mph65.7 / 49.5 mpg imp74.3 / 54.3 mpg imp





29 Apr 2013

Honda’s identity crisis


My blog is about bikes—in particular the F800GS—so this entry is, in itself, suffering from something of an identity crisis.

My career has spanned 22 years in the field of corporate graphic design with a focus on brand identity. The graphic design industry has developed something of a bad name, with inexpensive, powerful computers and software available to anyone fancying themselves a bit of a designer from their basement... so opinions vary and everyone certainly has one.

I am of the opinion that automotive design is the pinnacle of the industry. Where else does design combine aesthetics, engineering, safety, comfort, dynamics and economy? I have a huge appreciation and a great deal of respect for the blood, sweat and tears that go into every detail of a modern vehicle.

Which brings me to Honda. A company close to my heart, having owned 3 of their cars and 2 of their bikes through the years. Considered by many to be one of the finest engineering companies in the world, their cars are well known to be among the most reliable, and their engines among the most durable.

Honda's styling is a different matter, however. Through the years they have had some incredible design hits, such as the then-futuristic 1988–91 Civic and clean-cut 1990–92 Accord—both designed to showcase their expensive and compact double wishbone suspension using design cues such as impossibly low beltlines.

So what happened when they redesigned the 9th generation Civic? The styling was such a disaster and an offence to the eye that the refresh scheduled for its 4th year was brought forward 3 years (pictured). Despite this, it still lacks the coherent, clean styling of its predecessor and gained frumpy proportions, awkward angles, and a flabby set of tail lamps straight off a Taurus or Camry from a decade ago.

The gobs of plastic chrome on the front and rear are out of place with the black trim on the sides. The window line is disturbed by a black triangle of plastic on its leading edge where a single window lived previously.

The stance is somehow wrong, looking almost as though the wheels have a negative camber—shaky knees. This is worsened by the increased overall length and decreased wheelbase compared to the previous generation.

It looks a bit pants.


In my opinion the 8th generation Civic is one of Honda's more recent styling hits, particularly the Japanese/European version.
Ignoring the shopping trolley handle rear wing specific to the Type-R (pictured), the design is clean and tidy, and the shape flows harmoniously from front to rear. The plastic chrome above the front intake fits well with the design and doesn't look like a pretentious attempt to move the car further upmarket.

It brings to mind the spirit of the 4th generation (1988–91) with its short front and long cabin. Honda never quite managed to capture this spirit with the 5th, 6th and 7th generations.

The flowing profile is offset by round detailing in the headlights, tail lamps, fuel filler cover and the wheels themselves, coming together to give a sense of stability and strength.

The face is slightly aggressive without being offensive—the slim headlights widen the appearance of the front end and the rearward curve toward the wheels emphasises and makes a feature of the short engine compartment.

The design is tight and sorted, with none of the frumpiness of its successor.

All is not lost with the 9th generation. Although the hatch version is also a questionable bit of design with some dumpy proportions, it seems Honda is listening—the upcoming tourer (pictured in concept form) loses the bad bits from the hatch and is, to my eyes at least, distinctive, flowing and harmonious on the whole, although some details such as the front air intakes are a bit fussy.

Honda's transition from concept to production traditionally consists of different wheels and lighting details, so what you see here should be virtually indistinguishable to the real thing.

In Europe, medium sized estates sell well and Honda may just have a sales hit on their hands.

I like some of the details such as the hidden rear door handles, which give the car a style reminiscent of a shooting brake, and the 3D tail lamps. The curving upper window line and bulging wheel arches effectively mask the fact this is actually cargo-carrying box on wheels.

Overall, Honda have managed to turn a utilitarian class of vehicle into something fairly desirable.

It will be interesting to see how the low end models with clear windows and small wheels ruin the design, but in Britain it shouldn't be a problem since buyers tend to spec up to the biggest wheels available.

I still question what happened to the disaster that is the saloon/sedan model. It's difficult to imagine the two cars are the same vehicle underneath the bodywork. Instead of continuity between the two, it is as though two teams of designers set to work in their own bubbles, completely isolated from each other.

Time will tell, but I for one hope Honda go back to their roots and start designing iconic cars again. Cars which complement their incredible engineering and still look good 20 years on.

Photos: World Honda

8 Apr 2013

3 Apr 2013

Red devil



I recently had the opportunity to take out an R1200GS Touring Edition (fully optioned) for two hours. In the rain, at that… Wow what a machine.

Compared to my F800GS it is loud and hugely more powerful. The engine is a touch rougher (more alive?) at idle but slightly smoother when revving, and the hydraulic clutch is far lighter than the cable clutch on the F800GS. That said, it is like a hair trigger which means a few stalls until you become acclimatised to it.

The boxer engine sounds bloody amazing—throaty and resonant—and the cylinders don’t stick out much further than my legs so there wasn’t much difference squeezing among cars when filtering.

The semi-active suspension is, in general, firmer than the soft F800GS. The bike feels well planted and the telelever front suspension greatly reduces dive under braking.

You sit far lower to the ground than on the F800GS and whatever magic those crazy German engineers have done, they’ve managed to mask the extra 25kg, as the new R1200GS actually feels lighter than the F800GS in low speed manoeuvres (the previous R1200GS, in my opinion, was a lumbering beast).

The ride-by-wire throttle programmes feel tangibly different. Rain mode makes the throttle feel gentle and slightly lazy, road mode feels roughly as responsive as the cable-operated F800GS throttle, and dynamic mode feels almost hyperactive. For obvious reasons I didn't try enduro or enduro pro modes.

The cruise control was flawless at 30mph—no driveline lash. I didn’t get a chance to try it on any faster roads due to the short time I had the bike.

The LED headlamp is an amazing and practical piece of tech for a dual sport bike, as LEDs are highly resistant to vibration.

The daytime riding light gives the new R1200GS a strong identity on the road and is beautifully executed with even lighting all the way round its contour.

Subjectively, car drivers seemed to shift over in their lanes to make room compared to when I'm on my F800GS, which means the unique lighting seems to deliver on its promise of extra visibility.

When the dipped beam comes on (either manually via a switch, or automatically via light sensors), the daytime riding light fades to roughly 50% intensity.

I seriously considered getting my F800GS appraised for part exchange. However, I would never buy a first model year bike—by the second model year, the worst of the bugs should have been identified and resolved.

Interestingly, going back to my F800GS did not feel like a downgrade at all. It felt like ‘home’ so to speak… familiar and comfortable. Powerful but in a much more discreet way.

As lovely as the new R1200GS is, the F800GS stands up well and is definitely the more capable bike on the rough stuff.

In retrospect, when my F800GS is 3 or 4 years old I think the R1200GS might just be my next bike, but it’s not quite time to exchange it.

20 Mar 2013