28 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 8 - Wemding to Ammerschwihr


We were up at 9am for breakfast and Carina and her family who own Hotel Ambiente very kindly asked if there was anything they could do with respect to our little mishap the day before. Although a good night’s sleep help to put things in perspective, we decided to head back in the direction of London.

However, about 10 minutes down the road we stopped and discussed if we were making the right decision. We decided not to go further away from home but to head straight to Ammerschwihr which, in a roundabout way, was sort of in the direction of home.

Sadly this meant missing out visiting our friends in Austria who were were very much looking forward to seeing. I sent a few texts to confirm our new plans with everyone and set the GPS for Ammerschwihr.

We stayed entirely off the motorways during the day and were treated to some beautiful roads through the Bavarian forests as we headed the 390km west. Our bodies were feeling a bit stiff from the fall so the day proved quite tiring.

A quick stop to rest the aching muscles—everything nearly back to normal with Zev inspecting the local foliage.

Apart from a drooping left handlebar and a few war wounds, it’s all smiles again! When life throws your lemons... and all that.
We arrived in Ammerschwihr at 7pm and brought our bags up to the guest room at our friend Laure’s family winery. After an hour’s pottering Laure and her partner Manu took us to Riquewihr via the vineyard roads for traditional Alsatian food.

Sadly, no lens can quite capture the beauty of the hills of grapevines—at least not from road level.

Snapping blind with the camera out the window of the car.

Jesus suffering as he keeps watch over the vines.

Endless beautiful views.

Just a regular road in Riquewihr—everywhere you look is full of charm.

Colourful buildings in traditional Alsatian style.

The town watering hole.

Zev inspects the cutting implements—I’m not sure if I should be concerned.

We stuffed ourselves silly on tarte flambée, one of the most recognised specialties from the area, traditionally just cream, onions and lardons on a thin dough based and fired in an extremely hot wood-fueled oven. We also tried the less traditional varieties which included various cheeses including the ridiculously stinky (but ridiculously delicious) Munster. When tarte flambée arrives with Munster cheese, it really does pong like the worst stinky feet imaginable.

Sadly, like so many picturesque places, there is no shortage of tourist tat.

After dinner the town took on a whole new feel in the dark.

A shop decorated with red flowers.

Zev, Laure and Manu inspect the goods.

A view down the main road of Riquewihr...

...and looking up the same road.

A road which looks like it should be in a child’s storybook.

Everywhere was quiet by 11pm.
I attempted to update this blog when we arrived back at the winery but was so exhausted I fell asleep with the laptop on top of me. There is no question that a couple days’ recuperation is needed. My muscles ache—I seem to have pulled one of my stomach muscles and the muscles around my hip are sore.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

Europe 2014: Day 7 - Prague to Wemding


We left Prague around 9:30am towards Germany. Traffic was reasonably light and before long we were in the rural countryside.

Around 11:30am we had a slight setback. We were riding down a gentle hill at about 70kph/45mph (for reference the speed limit was 90kph/55mph) and without any warning at all the bike popped out from under us and we slid to a stop on the tarmac. As I was sliding I could see the bike sliding on its left side ahead of me until it reached the grassy shoulder where the wheels caught and the bike flipped over onto its right side.

We both got straight up to our feet and looked at each other, completely perplexed and somewhat shocked. After determining that nothing hurt, we realised with relief that neither of us were injured and our gear had taken the brunt of the fall. I had slid on my left side and Zev had slid on his bottom, dragging his left arm.

A few seconds later a young chap came along and stopped to help us put the bike upright and then carried on his way. I noticed there was oil all over the engine and tyres and realised we had ridden onto an unnoticed slick of tarry oil. From the direction we were travelling, the angle of the sun made it blend into the road, looking like just another patched area of tarmac.

I called 112 (emergency line) and explained what happened and they sent out the police. Meanwhile I took photographs of the area and the damaged parts of the bike. I called my insurer and went through the details.

An hour later, the police still hadn’t arrived so I called 112 again. The lady explained that they couldn’t find where we were, and I realised in my shaken state I’d given the postcode instead of the road number. Not long afterwards a police van arrived.

The two PCs documented the scene and marked the skid-marks from the bike’s tyres and crash bars. They called the fire department to spread sand over the oil slick and then took our passports, the bike registration and insurance documents and my driving licence, and performed a mandatory breathalyser test which of course read zero.

Finally at about 3pm we finished up and I was presented with my documents and a police report to give to my insurer. I had a look at the bike together with one of the PCs and we couldn’t find any mechanical damage—the crash bars did their job remarkably well without so much as a scratch on the engine casings. However there was quite a lot of cosmetic damage and the panniers took a beating. He could not see any roadworthiness issues and donated a roll of packaging tape to seal off the broken bits of the panner and reattach the left hand guard. With that, off they went. It seems the R1200GS—even the new, allegedly more delicate water-cooled version—is a tough old bastard of a bike.

Looking down the road from the left side the oil patch is clearly evident.

From the right side it blended in with the other patchwork. Skidmarks from where the rear wheel struck the ground numerous times on the right and from the front wheel on the left while the bike was sliding.

Windscreen, air deflector and headlamp subframe all scratched up. The windscreen height adjustment mechanism still works but is fairly bent out of alignment. Both front indicators were pulled from their mounts but fortunately still function.

Crash bar scratched up but did its job protecting the cylinder head, and small scuffs on the top of the radiator cover, the air intake and the BMW emblem.

Knackered pannier but still opens and closes. No longer sits level and expansion mechanism fused.

Oil from the road which sprayed up from the tyre onto the engine casing and exhaust.

Another shot of the windscreen and broken wind deflector. Hand guard mount shattered and handlebar bent on the left side (sits about 1cm lower than the right but full movement still possible without interference apart from activating the horn at full lock. Both mirrors were spinning freely but retightened with the onboard toolkit.

Closeup of the destroyed pannier—I sealed off the gap with packaging tape which was kindly donated by the police.

Zev’s jacket where his arm dragged on the ground.

Zev’s bottom where he slid to a stop on the tarmac. Although these look like jeans, they are kevlar reinforced denim and the fabric withstood the abrasion from 70kph without fraying.

Outside of my left leg where the fabric wore through to the inner guards.

My left sleeve.

My jacket—the area where the fabric wore through was where my wallet caused the pocket to bulge.
A testament to why the right gear is important—we both walked away from a crash at almost highway speed without so much as a bruise. A few sore muscles—that’s it. Wearing a t-shirt and shorts, for example, would have resulted in skin and possibly bone grafts, plus time in hospital and countless hours of rehabilitation. Thankfully, neither of us hit our heads on the ground, so the helmets remained undamaged.

That said, there was also an element of luck—we were very lucky there were no other vehicles on the road and that we slid to a stop without striking anything (trees, signposts etc). Of course the mind goes a bit mad with ‘what ifs’ and the like—had I been a little bit to the right in the lane I would have avoided the oil slick all together, or if the oil slick had been mid corner on one of the mountain roads things would have turned out far worse.

It would have been easy to have my insurance repatriate the bike to the UK and fly us home via the most efficient route but I don’t think this would have been the best course of action, as it would have been far too easy to never get on a motorbike again. Put another way, I snowboarded for many, many years when I was younger—statistically a far more dangerous sport than motorbiking—and even after a particularly bad fall where I broke my arm in eight places at once, I was back on the slopes two days later with my arm in a sling (much to my doctor’s chagrin I’m certain).

With this in mind, after the police finished writing their report, we decided to carry on to Wemding as planned, have a good night’s sleep and then decide what to do. 

After having another thorough check of the bike to ensure nothing was inhibited with the steering and other mechanical bits we were confident it was undamaged functionally. To make up for lost time we took mainly the motorways and arrived in Wemding at about 7:30pm.

Hotel Ambiente where we were booked appeared locked up, but we found a small note on the door to ring a number. Due to holidays the restaurant was closed but the hotel was still open. We were shown to our rooms which were actually part of the hotel’s spa area so we had access to a beautiful walk-in wet room to have a shower and freshen up after the day’s ordeal.

We had dinner at a restaurant on the other side of the town square and were treated to traditional German fare, including a delicious warm apple strudel with ice cream for dessert. At that point it was time to call it a night.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

25 Jun 2014

Europe 2014: Day 6 - Prague


They (whomever ‘they’ are) say you should allow yourself to enjoy your vices while on holiday. And that I did this morning when I was presented with a breakfast buffet with every type of sausage and cheese known to mankind. At home I don’t eat a lot of meat but wurst and kielbasa are definitely my weakness.

Suitably stuffed (like a sausage) I showered and generally beautified myself as best as can be done and we headed out to explore Prague. And what a gorgeous city it is. Look closely and you’ll find clean streets contrasting with crap graffiti but it all comes together with an overall charm that many other cities lack. Another noticeable thing is the styles—ranging from 80s eurotrash (including some remarkable perms!) to modern haute couture—everyone seems to have a place in Prague.

Slovanský ostrov tower—I love the onion-shaped roofs you see all over eastern Europe.

Everywhere you look is full of greenery.

The lock which allows boats to pass the waterfall.

Zev here. It’s wet and my shoe has sprung a leak.

What’s a little rain when you live in London?

There are spaces in this city which don’t seem real!

One of many bridges crossing the Vltava (or Moldau)—a river which has inspired artists to write symphonies.

Another corner, another beautiful space.

The Dancing Building (aka Fred and Ginger).

Kostel Svatého Ignáce.

Kostel Svatého Ludmily with its two clocks.

Free bags to clean up after your pooch!
After walking around half the city it was time to have a rest before dinner (these are holidays after all). We decided to try out the Italian restaurant on the lower ground floor of our hotel. The restaurant prominently advertises that they make their own mozzarella in house and the prices were extremely inexpensive (about €6 for a huge pizza, see photo below).

We ordered a vegetarian antipasti platter to start which had a selection of grilled Mediterranean vegetables with olives, fresh and sun-blush tomatoes, and of course several generously thick slices of mozzarella. The bill came in at a princely 430Kč or €15. Excellent service, definitely worth a go!

Ristorate L’Artista
Legerova 9
120 00 Praha
Czech Republic

The street entrance to our hotel restaurant Ristorate L’Artista which prides itself on homemade mozzarella.

Pizza ‘Lecce’—artichokes, wild mushrooms and salami... yum!!
After dinner I took a few photos of the hotel car park—this building was around before cars and was likely designed for a horse and carriage to enter the courtyard, not modern cars at nearly 2m in width... It’s great for a motorbike, but would be far too easy to knock off a wing mirror squeezing a car through the aperture.

Sharing a space with a Swiss registered R1150GS—have yet to run into the owner, perhaps he/she will find this blog post?
Driving skills and spacial awareness required to squeeze a car into the car park—no problem with a bike!
We popped out to a traditional-style Czech pub for a couple pints of tasty local lager before going back to the room for a good night’s sleep—it’s off to Wemding, Germany tomorrow, 350km away.

Česká Společnost Antropologická (Czeck Anthropological Society) at dusk.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up

Europe 2014: Day 5 - Berlin to Prague


For the second morning in a row, I’ve been rudely awakened by a housekeeper walking in, completely ignoring the ‘do not disturb’ sign on the door! Not good enough, Aldea Hotel!!

Ok—let’s reflect a bit. The hotel was fine—clean and functional as you would expect—with comfortable beds and the cost was reasonable. But this, and to a lesser degree the lack of functioning wi-fi, tainted the experience somewhat and had me woken up on the wrong side of bed. Check-out time is 11am anyway and she came in at 9:30! Grump grump grump.

We packed up and left with dark skies and showers here and there. After 45 minutes on the autobahn we exited to take the back roads, stopping off at a supermarket to buy some food for breakfast/lunch about 60km from Dresden.

As luck would have it, the skies properly opened but by the time we finished eating the rain had all but stopped so we carried on towards Prague.

The sun came out again and found the landscape changing to rolling hills with fast sweeping bends. At a roadside pull-out Zev noticed some foliage of which he wanted some specimens...

A few more for the specimen container.
...which gave me a few minutes to ponder the bike. Yes, the bike—not a lot has been said about it because it has hummed away dutifully without any backtalk. BMW really do make a cracker—even fully loaded it never wants for power, and the handling feels almost as light as when I ride it alone. I have been averaging 50mpg (10 less than my F800GS in similar conditions) and the bike has not used a drop of oil whereas the previous air/oil cooled engine is known to be quite thirsty at times.

If I had to split hairs, at certain revs and at specific engine loads there is a slight vibration in the bars but otherwise it is smooth as you’d want—considering it is a two cylinder engine with each chamber’s capacity the same as a 600cc sport bike, BMW have done well to smooth it out, and the engine loves to rev quickly and freely.

The only other thing of note is a few rough shifts with the Gear Shift Assist Pro system when it should have shifted smoothly—that said, 99 times out of 100 it shifts flawlessly under light throttle, heavy throttle and everything in between. Perhaps a future software update will resolve the odd rough shift. The literature about this option is quite right—the system is absolutely made for the type of riding I’ve done on this trip and makes the experience quicker yet more relaxing.

Ready for take-off.
One for the GS Europe group!
A trail in the woods from the roadside pull-out to an unknown destination.
Carrying on, we reached what was once the German/Czech border checkpoint—not a very inviting structure and no doubt a cause of anxiety to many people through the years.

All function and no form.
I admit I felt a little bit apprehensive entering the Czech Republic, simply for the reason that the language is absolutely foreign to me (whereas I can speak French and Greek readily and enough German and Dutch to do the basics). About five minutes into the country I stopped to refuel and, without thinking, spoke German to the clerk—of course being so close to the border she responded in German. I needn’t have worried, however, as it seems nearly everyone speaks English almost fluently.

The roads in the Czech Republic are much rougher than the German roads and require some acclimatisation—bends which cannot be taken safely at the speed limit are generally not marked. For example, on a 90kph road, in most countries a sharp bend will have an advisory posted at 50kph (or whatever is appropriate) but these advisories are few and far between here—extra concentration is essential. Also, where sections with a passing lane merge back to a single lane, they do so at the sign without advanced warning like most other places.

Nevertheless, the roads are fast and great fun, especially on a bike like a GS with extra-travel suspension so soak up the poor surfaces. I would say, among the most fun of any roads I’ve been on so far this trip.

We arrived in Prague around 5:30pm and made a few calls to find a hotel which offered secure parking. We found a room at the 4-star Hotel Louis Léger for €38/night, right in central Prague. I thought this was a mistake! The hotel was originally an aristocrat’s mansion and was named after the French poet. The rooms have 12-foot ceilings and antique-style furniture. Absolutely lovely.

After a bit of a rest, we headed out to dinner after asking our lovely hotel receptionist her recommendation—Restaurace & Music Bar Legenda.

Legerova at sunset.
 I was so hungry I forgot to photograph the food but it was delicious and inexpensive (roughly half the cost of an equivalent meal in London).

Drinks on the terrace.
One for the road.
After dinner, straight under the duvet for a bit of blog updating and then off to sleep.


Europe 2014 quick links


Day 1: London to Sint-Gillis-Waas
Day 2: Sint-Gillis-Waas to Bad Driburg
Day 3: Bad Driburg to Berlin
Day 4: Berlin
Day 5: Berlin to Prague
Day 6: Prague
Day 7: Prague to Wemding
Day 8: Wemding to Ammerschwihr
Day 9: Ammerschwihr
Day 10: Ammerschwihr
Day 11: Ammerschwihr to Eschdorf
Day 12: Eschdorf to London

Wrapping-up